tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18351206545251461432024-03-06T02:43:35.195+01:00RETO VERTICAL"El alpinista es quién conduce su cuerpo allá dónde un día sus ojos lo soñaron."Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.comBlogger79125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-83783182055412472792014-07-21T18:57:00.002+02:002014-07-21T19:27:59.295+02:00Recordando a un amigo, mi compañero de cordada!!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Estoy triste, destrozado, huérfano,...Nunca pensé que se podría echar tanto de menos a una persona cuando ésta faltara, y ésto sólo acaba de comenzar!!! Hoy nos hemos despedido de Loren, una gran persona y un gran amigo. Recordándolo en fotos, sólo hago que llorar y llorar su pérdida. No me hago a la idea de volver otra vez a la Montaña sin su compañía, él era algo más que un amigo, era mi compañero de cordada, la persona a la que en montaña le confías en muchas ocasiones tu vida y él te confía la suya. No dejo de pensar cómo haré para superar ésto, me imagino que con el tiempo lo conseguiré, pero ahora no sé cómo!!!<br />
He recopilado hace un rato, alguna de las muchas fotos que tengo con él. Cada una que colocaba en la carpeta con su nombre, era como clavarme una pequeña espina en el corazón...Cuantos momentos juntos, cuanto vivido y cuantos proyectos que ahora quedarán en el olvido, porque eran nuestros proyectos y no me veo con fuerzas de continuarlos sin él. Quisiera hoy hacerle un homenaje por todos los buenos y malos momentos vividos con él allí arriba pero no sé cómo. No sé cómo a Loren se le puede recompensar de alguna manera todo lo que él a dado a los demás..., y todo lo que el me dio.<br />
Grande amigo, hoy nos has dejado, pero me queda el consuelo de tu recuerdo que perdurara mucho tiempo.<br />
<br />
...." Jesusín", me decía él siempre!!!, " qué quieres Lorenzón?" le decía yo, "Vamos a por el siguiente pico?", ..."tira que yo te sigo..." Con cuatro palabras y una simple mirada sabíamos lo que teníamos que hacer en esos momentos. Nunca una mala cara, nunca un mal gesto, nunca una mala mirada, así era él; tierno, sereno, tranquilo,...Consolaba al afligido, ayudaba al desvalido y nunca dejaba de sonreír ni en los duros momentos vividos, siempre me decía..." tranquilo que no pasa nada, ya llegaremos y auh!!!"<br />
Le apasionaba la Montaña más que a nadie. Cuando le proponía alguna aventurilla, no lo podía disimular, sus ojos se le llenaban de luz, su rostro se estiraba,... Con todo ello hoy nos deja, me abandona sin avisar. Se que está bien, porque para eso tengo un sexto sentido, algo me dice que ahora, él me está viendo escribir estas palabras de pena y de auto consuelo y se que cuando vuelva a subir al Monte, el caminará a mi lado.<br />
Adiós Compañero, nos vemos por las montañas!!!<br />
Cuídate y cuídanos.<br />
<br />
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<b> Hasta siempre Loren!!!!!</b><br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-13870078581126426292014-06-25T18:07:00.000+02:002014-06-25T18:54:57.354+02:00Cresta Besiberris AD-<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Cresta disfrutona y asequible para un buen inicio en este tipo de actividades, aun así se requiere tener mucho cuidado al hacerla, ya que cuenta con varios puntos muy expuestos, donde no se puede permitir error alguno!!!<br />
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Nuestra actividad comienza en el valle de Boi, en el parking alto de la misma presa de Cavallers, a 1700m. Desde allí parte un sendero que bordea el embalse por su margen derecha hasta llegar a una pleta en la que se ha de girar a la izquierda para continuar por el Barranco de Malavesina pasando por el Estany de Malavesina 2500m y de alli dirigirse al Besiberri Norte, primer tresmil de la cresta. Para hacer la cresta integra, la gente suele hacer un vivac junto al ibon.</div>
Nosotros decidimos hacerla toda del tirón, o bien hacer al menos los picos que nos faltaban en este cordal.<br />
El grupo lo formábamos; Loren, Raúl y yo...<br />
Partimos de Monzón, a las 5 de la madrugada, algunos casi sin dormir, en especial Raúl..., se esperaban tormentas a primeras horas de la tarde, ello requería evaluar posibles rutas de escapada, o alternativas de abandono.<br />
Para esta época del año, advertimos mucha cantidad de nieve en altura, aun así decidimos optar por ir más ligeros, jugárnosla un poco, decidimos no llevar crampones, pensando que la nieve estaría muy practicable dado su orientación, esta vez acertamos!!!<br />
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Llegada a la Pleta, donde se cruza un par de puentes de madera y se ha de girar hacia el Barranco de la Malavesina.<br />
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Al fondo del barranco, se puede observar ya el Besiberri Norte!!!<br />
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Detrás nuestro aparece hermoso el Estany Negre y junto a él, el precioso Refugio de Ventosa i Calvell.<br />
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En 2,5h llegamos al Estany de Malavesina 2.500m. Allí alcanzamos a un grupo de tres catalanes, con los que comenzamos el ataque al B.Norte.<br />
Desde éste lugar, las palas de acceso nos parecían algo durillas, sobre todo al ir sin crampones, pero el buen estado de la nieve hizo que el ascenso fuera mejor de lo esperado!!!<br />
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Primeros flanqueos de exposición, jeje!!! Tiro yo abriendo huella.<br />
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Ya vemos de perfil la casi toda la Cresta, no pudiendo advertir desde este punto todavía el B.Sur.<br />
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Rápidamente fuimos ganando altura, el tiempo y el desnivel empezaron a pasarnos factura...<br />
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Bonitas crestas a nuestra derecha que tendremos que investigar!!!<br />
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Llegada a la arista, desde la que accedemos a la misma falda de la pared del B. Norte, allí se encuentran los canales de acceso a su cima.<br />
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Primeros canaluzos III.<br />
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En plena arista ya, donde asoma la otra vertiente, justo debajo el Laç de Mar.<br />
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Abro camino, siguiendo los hitos que nos dirigen al canal de acceso <u>derecho</u> del pico, pues es el más atractivo por ser algo más técnico que el izquierdo, con un paso algo expuesto!!!<br />
Es éste paso que no se ve bien en la foto, es un pasito de decisión III+, que te tira hacia tras, sino lo aseguras has de ir con ojo y algo sobrado.<br />
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Luego ya te clavas rápido en la cima, durillo tresmil, si señor!!!<br />
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Desde la cima vemos ya la cresta integra, al fondo el Comaloformo!!!<br />
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Besiberri Norte 3.014m, nos ha costado 4 horetas!!!<br />
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Aquí os indico el que para mi es el paso de la cresta, son 15m de III+/casi IV y lo digo atendiendo a su grado de exposición, nosotros lo hicimos a pelo, pero reconozco que tiene un paso de salida algo fino sino lo proteges!!!<br />
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Desde el B.N, se desciende a través de un canal por la vertiente derecha hasta la brecha de Jaume Oliveras 2.935m, siguiendo siempre unos hitos, que te indican en todo momento el itinerario de la cresta. Nosotros los seguimos, casi siempre flanquean por el lado derecho, evitando alguna que otra aguja!!! Después de hacerlo considero que casi es excesivo este flanqueo y me arrepiento de no haber ido más <u>a plena cresta</u> y entramar así mayor dificultad al asunto, pero bueno es una opinión, creo que perfectamente se hubiera podido hacer todas las puntas por su filo sin aumentar mucho su nivel!!!<br />
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Primera aguja flanqueada!!!<br />
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Pronto llegas a la pared de una segunda aguja a la que si has de acceder!!!<br />
En ella, está el paso delicado que os decía, al inicio encontrareis un clavo para asegurar!!!<br />
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Lo pasamos, con algún momento de dudas,... pero bien!!!, aquí veis a Loren, saliendo del mismo.<br />
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Los dos picos del fondo, son los dos B. del Mig, todo lo demás son puntas!!!, os lo digo porque al principio no se ve del todo claro.<br />
Desde esta punta que alcanzamos casi del todo, porque el tramo más afilado los hitos lo bordean por la derecha, llegamos a la instalación de los dos rápeles de la cresta, si hubiéramos ido a plena cresta nos hubiéramos encontrado con otra instalación un poco más arriba, que es la que suele salir en casi todas las reseñas, bueno decir que no es mucha la diferencia en este caso!!!<br />
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Primer rapel..., lo hacemos con dos cordinos de 30m, calculo que será de 15m apróx., quiza más!!!<br />
Con una cuerda de 30 en doble, no me atrevo asegurar que se pudiera llegar pero algo creo que se podría destrepar, en su parte final, por lo que puedo considerar el portar una única cuerda de 30m para toda la cresta!!!<br />
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Y segundo rapel 8/10m...<br />
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Ésa es la aguja desde la que se rapela!!!<br />
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Ahora si baja el nivel y te permite investigar más..., nos metemos a plena cresta a disfrutar un poco de la buena roca!!!<br />
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Embarcando nos en algún destrepe interesante!!!<br />
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Y alguna escaladeta entretenida...<br />
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Ya vemos el primer pico del Mig!!!, justo enfrente...<br />
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El nivel de la cresta baja y no pasa de II+<br />
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En poco tiempo nos situamos muy cerca del segundo tresmil del día!!!<br />
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Parece mentira lo recorrido ya, en tan poco tiempo, en esta cresta se avanza muy rápido y más con los flanqueos que hace!!!<br />
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Ésta es la cima!!!<br />
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Y ésa de allá la siguiente, está muy cerca y prácticamente sin dificultad!!!<br />
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Y ése pico es el B. Sur, al que intentaremos llegar!!!<br />
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Fotos de rigor!!!<br />
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A nuestra derecha el durisimo valle de Besiberri!!! y al fondo las Maladetas con el Aneto!!!<br />
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B. Mig Norte 3.003m.<br />
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Y rápido al Mig Sur...<br />
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Loren llegando!!!<br />
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Hasta aquí creo que la cresta nos ha costado una hora y media, quizá un poco más!!!<br />
El tiempo cambia rápido y estamos algo cansados, decidimos no arriesgar y dar por concluida la actividad del día!!!<br />
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Foto de cima, B.Mig Sur 3.003m..., tercero del día!!!<br />
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Todo el tramo de cresta recorrido!!!<br />
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Cuanta nieve queda todavía!!!<br />
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Optamos por conocer la opcion "corta"de acceso de regreso, que discurre por el Barranco de Comalestorres, brutal y vertiginoso los 500m finales hasta llegar a la misma presa!!!, no recomiendo esta opción!!!<br />
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Salimos de la cresta y nos dirigimos al Estany Gelat de Comaloformo 2.897m, bordeándolo por la izquierda para perder altura siguiendo unos hitos que te conducen al Pass de L´Osso 2.489m, por el que accedes al Barranco de Comalestorres y de allí a la misma presa!!!<br />
Frente a nosotros las nubes se aproximan, estamos muy cerca del B.Sur, por el otro lado contemplamos el collado que da acceso al B.Sur por el valle de los Besiberris.<br />
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Brutales 1000m de descenso!!!, seguid bien los hitos en este barranco.<br />
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Curiosos destrepes en su parte final muy cerca ya de la presa!!!<br />
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Y llegada a la misma presa, 10 horas después!!!<br />
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Alguno con alguna magulladura que otra, jeje!!!, pero contentos.<br />
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Otro reto superado amigos!!!<br />
Un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-12973160205928468412014-04-22T17:59:00.000+02:002014-04-22T18:04:18.855+02:00Corredor NE del Bisaurin 250m PD Sup. Pico Bisaurin 2.670m.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Ascensión realizada en Marzo del 2014.<br />
Hola a todos, siento no haber podido publicar antes esta entrada, pues se realizó hace ya algunas semanas, cuando todavía quedaba mucha nieve en nuestro Pirineo!!!<br />
Nuestro destino era conquistar las tierras altas de la parte más occidental de nuestro Pirineo, concreta mente un pico llamado Bisaurín, muy conocido por estos lares y del cual muchos no tienen gratos recuerdos de él. Es un pico bastante jodido, no ya tanto por su desnivel sino por su climatología adversa, ya que es un macizo que hace de escudo frenando muchos de los temporales que se aproximan a nuestra Cordillera Pirenaica.<br />
Esta vez el grupo estaba formado por; nuestro gran amigo Toño, que en tantas ocasiones ha sido nuestro guía y protector. Con él, venían su mujer Carmen y Marian (compañera de uno de sus hijos), como no mi gran amigo Loren al que le acompañaba su mujer Mª Jesús ( la cual no pudo subir por enfermedad), su gran amigo Chusé y yo.<br />
Muchos de ellos lo habían intentado ya en otras ocasiones y en ninguna habían tenido éxito..., para mi ésta era la primera vez que me iba a enfrentar a él, jeje...Ésto dice mucho de la dificultad, pocas veces se deja hacer y el que lo hace, lo sufre...<br />
Nuestra intención era la de acceder a él desde el collado del Secús 2.398m, por uno de sus corredores de su cara NE, entrañando así una mayor dificultad al asunto.<br />
La idea inicial era la de coger el corredor de mayor dificultad, el cual posee dos resaltes y un max. de 70º, su dificultad está graduada en AD. No pudo ser, al llegar allí la cosa pintaba algo delicada!!! Hacía mucho viento, un viento racheado y muy peligroso y en el corredor había acumulada mucha nieve, todavía nadie esta temporada había subido por allí. Al final, optamos por la opción más segura, subir por el corredor situado un poco más a la izquierda, que progresa por la misma arista, y que se une con el anterior a medio camino, mediante un flanqueo ( 50º/65º PD+).<br />
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Habíamos llegado al refugio de Lizarra (1.540m) el día anterior, un día ventoso como ninguno y las previsiones eran aun todavía peores... A la mañana siguiente el viento arreció con fuerza desde primeras horas de la mañana y no paró hasta que llagamos a la cima.<br />
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Yo en la soledad del amanecer, luchando contra el viento incomodo de aquel lugar...<br />
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Al fondo, el falso collado. Al llegar a él se te cae el mundo encima, pues piensas que ya has llegado y te das cuenta que ésto no ha hecho más que comenzar, jeje..., luego veréis porqué!!!<br />
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Viento, viento y más viento..., la tónica predominante del día!!!<br />
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Vista hacia tras, desde el falso collado...<br />
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Hacia delante, al fin divisamos el collado del Secús (a su izquierda, la antecima del Bisaurín 2.654m y a su derecha, el Puntal del Secús 2.512m), joder lo que nos queda, y con este viento!!!<br />
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Curiosas formaciones a nuestro paso...<br />
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Vistas desde el Collado del Secús.<br />
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Loren en el Collado del Secús fuertemente venteado.<br />
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Os dejo una panorámica de la cara NE, y un croquis detallado de nuestro itinerario. Subimos por el Rojo.<br />
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Ése es el inicio del Corredor AD.<br />
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Foto con Toño a pies del corredor...<br />
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El el Collado nos reagrupamos todos y tras comer algo nos distribuimos en dos cordadas de tres, nos encordaríamos con sendos cordinos de 30m a unos 3/4m de distancia uno de otro, lo ascendimos todo en ensamble.<br />
Abriría la cordada de Toño con él a la cabeza, vigilando todos las fuertes rachas de viento, las cuales debíamos de proteger ya que estábamos en el mismo filo de la arista, Loren encabezaba mi cordada.<br />
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Pronto pudimos apreciar lo picado de estos corredores, que desde abajo no parecen gran cosa!!!, por momentos impresiona.<br />
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Llegamos al flanqueo,<br />
momento como siempre delicado...<br />
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Aquí me tenéis parado, solventando la racha de viento...en pleno flanqueo.<br />
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Chusé a mi vera!!!<br />
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En esta foto se puede observar en plenitud el flanqueo, se observan sus huellas dejadas...<br />
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... Loren, que te tiro una foto!!!<br />
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Muy cerca ya de la salida del corredor...<br />
Corredor rápido, en poco más de una hora nos lo ventilamos...<br />
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Salida del Corredor que se junta con el itinerario de la normal de la cara Norte, más concurrida!!!<br />
Al fondo se observa la antecima del Bisaurín.<br />
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Chusé a la salida del corredor...<br />
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Resalte hacia la antecima...<br />
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Y al fondo al fin, el Bisauin...<br />
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En 15min. a la cima...reto superado...!!!<br />
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Siiiiii.....................Día grande!!! Magnífica cima, genial.<br />
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Cima del Bisaurin 2.670m!!!<br />
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Bonito lugar!!!, se calma el viento justo antes de bajar!!!<br />
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Bajamos por la cara sur!!!<br />
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Que duro y lento es subir y que rápido se aleja al bajar!!!<br />
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Nos hundimos hasta las rodillas, dura bajada...<br />
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Llegada al refugio, día impresionante, parece mentira lo superado, duro día de viento!!!<br />
Refugio de Lizarra.<br />
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Bonito y duro pico, si señor!!!,algún día volveremos a este lugar!!!<br />
Al llegar nos cambiamos y esperamos al grupo, me abro una birrita y a celebrarlo!!!<br />
Otro reto superado!!! y en muy buena compañía!!!<br />
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<b> Un saludo a todos y feliz andada...., nos vemos por el Monte!!!</b><br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-24086611431149442642014-03-01T19:10:00.000+01:002014-03-01T19:10:08.940+01:00Corredor Gran Diagonal-Peña Telera. AD+max.65º 700m.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Os he de decir que en un principio, tenia dudas de que esta actividad pudiera estar ya a nuestra altura, que pudiéramos ser capaces de hacer frente a este nuevo proyecto, a este nuevo reto...Cuando llegas a Telera por primera vez y te encuentras frente a este paredón de hielo y nieve (plagado de preciosos corredores), te sientes tan pequeño que tu corazón se estremece, una mezcla de sensaciones, unido a la incertidumbre de saber si podrás o no enfrentarte a ello invade tu cuerpo, entonces es cuando surgen las dudas, de si podrás o no superarlo...A su vez, unas ganas locas de empezar toda aquella aventura, te llevan casi sin darte cuenta al inicio del corredor!!!<br />
Si señor, grandioso y perfecto, no puedo decir nada más de él, mantenido y muy entretenido, largo cómo ninguno y asequible còmo tantos otros.<br />
Lo conocíamos muy de odias, estaba en nuestros pensamientos hacia ya mucho tiempo..., ese día todo se preparó muy rápido, quizá demasiado, pocas horas después estábamos ya en él!!!<br />
Deciros que quizá cometiéramos un fallo en la previsión, quizá no madrugamos lo suficiente, quizá aseguramos en exceso los largos (pues aconsejan hacerlo en ensamble),..., no lo sé, para mi la única preocupación era la de disfrutar y salir bien de aquel lugar. Aseguramos en exceso y eso nos hizo pagar con tiempo y con mucho esfuerzo, siete largas horas de actividad, pero disfrutándolas a tope cada una de ellas cómo si fuera la última, pues el corredor no nos dio ningún problema técnico, todo salió a la perfección únicamente, salimos muy cerca de ponerse el sol.<br />
Os dejo alguna foto sacada de Internet del lugar, más alguna reseña para que veáis el grado y los varios resaltes que tiene, que según el estado de la nieve pueden o no diferir...<br />
Nosotros lo hicimos en un estado bastante bueno de nieve, los resaltes cubiertos por hielo, eso si, algo blando...<br />
El corredor a mi en tender, es cómo dicen; factible y muy disfrutón, grado mantenido, entorno a 60/65º con varios tramos de 45/50º. Yo aconsejo llevar varios clavos, los de U, van de cojon!!, varias cintas largas, alguna estaca y algún alíen, pues las grietas son pequeñas...,dos cuerdas de 60 para los rapeles de bajada y madrugar más que nosotros...y a poder ser (si vuestro grado os permite hacerlo con seguridad), os aconsejo evitar el abuso de reuniones y hacerlo en ensamble!!!<br />
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Reseña sacada de Internet!!!<br />
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Os muestro nuestro pequeño repertorio fotográfico...<br />
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A la derecha de la foto, está el pico Telera y el corredor que cruza en diagonal el pico, de derecha a izquierda...<br />
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Ese es el cono de entrada al corredor!!!<br />
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Y éste el corredor visto de lejos...<br />
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Cuando llegas, la perspectiva en la foto no se aprecia pero os puedo decir que la primera impresión es bestial, jeje..<br />
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El corredor de esta foto que está mas a la derecha es el de la Y, que es el que se emplea para bajar...Llagamos a a las 8.30h y próximos al correodor preparamos el material, comemos algo mientras observamos a un grupo de tres cordadas que se dirigen al Y.<br />
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Vamos estudiando el asuntillo del día, al mirarnos al corredor, mi compañero Lorenzo y yo cruzamos la mirada, entonces algo se estremece dentro de nosotros,... pero sabemos que ahora no es hora de lamentaciones, tenemos un día largo por delante y sabemos que lo podemos hacer...<br />
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Pues a por ello, de momento vamos en libre..., queremos llegar lo antes posible al primer resalte y allí valorar la situación...<br />
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Mirar mi cara, salgo algo mal, pues esa noche casi no había dormido nada, me suele suceder pero estoy acostumbrado..., ademas las primeras rampas siempre suelen ponerte al limite, tu cuerpo necesita adaptarse al esfuerzo constante de este tipo de actividades!!!<br />
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La nieve a tramos exquisita...de esas en la que sólo se clavan las puntas, en la que cada zancada, parece que estas más cerca ya de la cima..., en otros tramos la nieva nos hace crear huella con el consiguiente desgaste!!!<br />
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Ya observamos los dos primeros resaltes...<br />
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Precioso día!!!<br />
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Llevo tres pares de guantes, pues creo que los vamos a utilizar todos!!!<br />
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Muy estético.<br />
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Y duro, empiezan ya las primeras rampas fuertes del día!!!<br />
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Llegamos al primer resalte y nos aseguramos en un cordino..., sacamos las cuerdas y me dispongo hacerlo de primero..., fácil pero luego a la salida tira picado...con el largo de cuerda me da para llegar al siguiente resalte, en medio pongo una estaca, la siguiente reunión la montaré con dos clavos!!!<br />
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Primer resalte!!!<br />
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Salida del resalte, el grado aumenta!!!, aquí ya no te puedes caer...<br />
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Me dirijo al segundo resalte...<br />
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60 m...<br />
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Reunión y sube Loren, es bueno si tenéis portar walkies!!!<br />
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Cara demacrada ya por la actividad..., reunión con dos clavos justo al inicio del segundo resalte, la reunión le he montado yo, ya que no encontré nada!!!<br />
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Ahora le toca a Loren afrontar el segundo largo...<br />
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Mientras detrás nuestro asoma el Midi!!!<br />
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Monta reunión Loren y subo yo...<br />
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Una mirara atrás de la salida del segundo resalte!!!<br />
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Parada a comernos algo rápido, media naranja...<br />
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Y tiramos para arriba que nos queda mucho!!!, nos vamos encontrando con algún que otro corvino viejo donde asegurar en largos con reuniones y alternar en ensamble los tramos fáciles.<br />
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Cualquier cosa que encuentres vale en estos sitios, jeje!!!<br />
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A Loren le entran dolores y algún que otro colambre y yo comienzo a pagar los excesos y me noto ya algo cansado, la cosa no está como para seguir en ensamble..., quizá el error haya sido el habernos dejado llevar por la emoción, quizá la falta de inactividad esté pasando factura, quizá la misma tensión o el frió (pasa muy a menudo), nos hizo olvidar una de las cosas más importante que se debe de hacer en montaña; el comer y beber cada cierto tiempo, sino tu cuerpo luego no avisa y entonces ya es tarde...<br />
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Yo me encuentro cansado pero entero, le comento a Loren que para evitar mayores lo mejor será que tire todo de primero e intente agilizar el asunto, ya era tarde..., quizá lo mejor hubiera sido darnos algo de tiempo para comer un poco.<br />
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La parte final para mi es la más delicada, justo a la salida del mirador pica un poco y suele estar helado, posteriormente ganas altura y debes de trazar una diagonal hacia la parte final. Es una zona muy expuesta que aconsejo asegurar!!!<br />
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Mirador...<br />
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Delicada diagonal, para mi lo más jodido..., en la pared, justo después de trazar la diagonal, hay un puente de roca que lo reforcé con dos clavos y asegure a Loren...<br />
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Desde la R de la diagonal...<br />
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...Y de aquí para arriba, que ya quedaba poco!!!<br />
Dos largos más y a la salida!!!<br />
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Ésa era!!!<br />
La salida tumba un poco.<br />
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Última R..., los clavos nos han ido de cojones!!!, no hemos empleado nada más, salvo una estaca!!!<br />
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7 horas y pico después salimos de este largo corredor, algo cansados pero enteros y muy, muy contentos, porque lo hemos hecho genial...<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-44687353699342253972014-02-01T12:21:00.001+01:002014-02-01T12:21:40.204+01:00Arista Coma de Gelis, Sant Llorenç de Mongai, 330m IV+/V D.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Hola a todos otra vez..., hacia ya varios días que no dejara una nueva entrada, pues hemos estado ocupados; unos días haciendo algo de hielo y otros descansando debido a las recientes nieves caídas en nuestro Pirineo que nos han privado de ello, jeje...pero ya estamos otra vez en activo!!!<br />
Esta vez os llevaré a visitar una interesante arista situada en tierras catalanas, en un lugar muy conocido por los escaladores, Sant Llorenç de Mongai (Lleida), está muy cerca de donde yo vivo...<br />
La arista en si es muy fácil, apta para el inicio en la escalada alpina, si te gusta el pirineo y como a mi las crestas, éste tipo de actividad es una muy buena. La cresta está semiequipada, presenta algún que otro clavo antiguo y numerosos puentes de roca, en esta reseña tan buena que he sacado por Internet os podéis hacer una idea de lo que os vais a encontrar en ella..., quizá después de hacerla, considero que en algún tramo, su grado es menor al indicado, pero aun con todo, es una muy buena reseña. Por deciros que el tramo final de V y su anterior de IV-, considero que deberían bajarle la graduación, IV/IV+ y III!!!, pero bueno me imagino que a cada uno le será diferente según lo afronte!!!<br />
Deciros que se puede empezar desde el mismo comino, a plena cresta, hay dos o tres vías de IV/IV+, que se pueden evitar rodeándolas por la derecha y empezar un poco mas arriba.<br />
Si no queréis seguir al pie la reseña no pasa nada, pues está plagado de anillos y cordinos, se pueden instalar las reuniones según creáis oportuno, teniendo en cuenta siempre; la seguridad de la R, la visión del compañero, su lejanía, los metros de cuerda,... y sobre todo el roce de las cuerdas.<br />
Asemeja mucho a lo que te puedes encontrar en las típicas crestas del Pirineo, claro pero con menos exposición. Da mucho juego a la hora de proteger los pasos con algún que otro friend o cinta larga extra!!!<br />
Material que me llevaría: Una cuerda simple de sesenta seria suficiente, el semáforo de camalot, cintajos y 10 cintas exprés, creo que con ésto es más que suficiente!!!<br />
Para llegar a ella, debéis de llegar a un pequeño puente (puente de la escalera) que cruza el pantano, de allí sale una senda que pasa a pie de cresta, no tiene pérdida!!!, la cresta está situada justo en frente de las vías de escalada de la zona, al otro lado del pantano.<br />
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Foto tomada desde el mismo puente, allí dejamos el coche!!!<br />
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Cogemos la senda, muy buena, sobre todo para ir en bici o correr!!!<br />
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Llegamos a la cresta y preparamos el material, bordeamos el pequeño tramo de escalada por la derecha, pues a esas horas todo estaba muy mojado y no vimos bien esas vías iniciales, observar bien en toda la cresta pues los clavos casi no se ven!!!<br />
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Nos dividimos en dos cordadas; Toño y su mujer Carmen y la otra Loren y yo..., comenzara la cordada de Toño, nosotros le iremos siguiendo...<br />
Primeros pasos, delicados, la roca estaba muy resbaladiza y los pies no nos daban muena confianza, algo de musgo (sita en cara norte) y roca suelta...<br />
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Carmen y Loren en la segunda R. Es la R que marcan en la reseña de la 1ª Torre!!!<br />
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Una mirada atrás!!!<br />
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Bonito tramo aéreo, pero muy fácil!!!<br />
Toño comenzando el largo, yo llegando a ellos!!!<br />
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Je je!!!!<br />
Sale el sol y la roca se empieza a secarse!!!, pues esta vía, al estar orientada al norte, es algo húmeda en sus primeros largos, por eso aconsejo hacerla en horario mas tarde, si la hacéis en invierno, ademas es corta!!!, nos costó 2h y media yendo tranquilos!!!<br />
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Tramo aéreo pasado..., muy chulo y disfrutón!!!<br />
Tener cuidado con la roca suelta y el musgo!!!<br />
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Este largo me gustó mucho abrirlo, pues lo vi con muchas posibilidades para jugar y colo car cacharros!!!<br />
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Salimos de la arista y nos encontramos con un descansillo, recogemos cuerdas y seguimos hacia ese peñon, es el diedro que indican de IV-( 2ª Torre), creo que no pasa de III.<br />
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Loren llegando...<br />
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Tramo de diedro, fácil!!!<br />
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Abre loren...<br />
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Después otro descansillo, volvemos a recoger cuerda y hacia la Gran Torre!!!<br />
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Este lo abro yo, jeje..., después de hacerlo, me dice Toño que no pasa de IV!!!, Yo creo que está entre IV/IV+.<br />
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Vemos subir a Carmen de segundo!!!<br />
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Y ahora me toca a mi, jeje!!!!<br />
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Os hago una foto al inicio!!!, grandes bolos...<br />
Tipo Riglos pero con bolos mayores, cuidado esta algo roto!!!<br />
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Reto superado!!!<br />
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Una mirada hacia detrás!!!<br />
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Y foto de grupo...<br />
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Hay una muy buena instalación de rapel, aprox. 25m...<br />
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Y una delicada bajada por terreno suelto, que nos hace sudar!!!<br />
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En frente la escuela de escalada de Sant Llorenç y su magnífico cilindro donde hice la vía Ribes Sabaté hace unos años, bonitos recuerdos!!!<br />
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Bonito y curioso reflejo!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Os dejo un pequeño croquis...<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-61973734256739951682013-12-14T20:35:00.001+01:002013-12-16T11:09:37.155+01:00Pico de Paderna 2.622m (invernal).<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Primera invernal del año, el Pico Paderna, je, je,..., nuestra intención era otra, pues era la de intentar algún tresmil, que nos quedaba, en la zona del Alba pero el estado de la nieve nos hizo desistir, tuvimos que conformarnos con el precioso pico, al que nunca había subido!!!<br />
Bonita invernal, día espectacular cómo ninguno y con muy buena compañía, un gran grupo de amigos y mejores personas, la verdad es que estar arropado por esta gente te hace disfrutar más aun si cabe, de esta bonita afición!!!<br />
El ascenso lo realizamos por la Renclusa, cogiendo desde los llanos el camino de invierno..., y el descenso por los Tubos de Paderna. Se nos hizo muy duro, nieve hasta la rodillas..., y las raquetas en el maletero del coche, jeje!!! Alguien nos había informado mal del estado de la nieve en esa zona, nos habían dicho que había placa a partir de 2500m!!!, pero no fue así, por lo que nos hizo agotador...Todos nos acordamos mucho de las benditas raquetas!!!<br />
El equipo lo formábamos; Maurin, Gerardo, Loren, Jesús y Yo. A Jesús Lavedán no lo conocía pero había oído hablar de él, experto Ornitólogo y un gran apasionado del deporte, pudimos comprobar su buen estado de forma, sobre todo en estas condiciones tan duras!!!<br />
Pista asfaltada de acceso al Hospital desde el parking, el parking, ha sido recientemente adecuado con asfalto, ya era hora!!!<br />
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Bonito amanecer..., que ganas tenía ya de pisar nieve..., estas primeras actividades invernales suelen ponerte a prueba, suelen ser duras, ya que hay muchos factores que cambian...<br />
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Cogemos rápido el camino de invierno hacia la Renclusa, detrás se observa precioso el Mallpiltrat!!!<br />
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Y el Salvaguardia y la Mina!!!<br />
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Maurin como siempre gracioso, es el alma del grupo, si los de Al Filo lo conocieran, seguro que lo contratarían, el sólo es capaz de revolucionar a todo un campo base de cualquier valle del Himalaya!!!<br />
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Como decía, nuestra idea inicial era la de dirigirnos hacia la zona del Alba, pronto asumimos que esta vez, mucho tendría que cambiar la cosa!!!, la nieve estaba muy blanda, todavía no estaba trasformada y nos dificultaba mucho la progresión, pronto barajemos la idea de cambiar de proyecto, la opción más apetecible sería la de ascender al Pico Paderna que tenéis en la foto!!!<br />
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Se puede ascender directo hacia su collado (siguiente foto), pero nosotros continuamos un poco más (en dirección al Alba), por si la cosa arriba cambiaba y se decidía finalmente intentar la hazaña.<br />
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Cada vez más lejanas, las ideas de conquistar nuestro primer tresmil de la temporada!!!<br />
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Como os decía, dura subida, la cosa pintaba mal, nuestro ritmo de ascensión era lento y el desgaste considerado, en Montaña, la experiencia te enseña a valorar todos estos pequeños factores, es importante analizar los tiempos y el ritmo de ascenso, valorando con ello las posibilidades de éxito.<br />
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..."Duro y agotador, hoy no es mi día, no me encuentro en mi mejor momento, pero aun así aporto todo mi esfuerzo al grupo, realizamos relevos, la cosa pinta mal..., Loren y Jesús asumen gran parte del recorrido!!!"...<br />
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Finalmente, junta general y decisión acertada, nos vamos al Paderna!!!<br />
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Frente a nosotros La Tuca Blanca de Paderna y la Tuqueta!!!<br />
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Y detrás nuestro el Paderna, estamos en el promontorio que se encuentra justo encima del collado que da acceso al Paderna, ahora hemos de bajar un poco y flanquear hacia él!!!<br />
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Ese de abajo es el collado...<br />
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Éste es el aspecto del acceso directo al collado, hubiera sido chulo!!!<br />
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Pala final hacia el pico!!!<br />
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Y nuestra primera invernal de la temporada!!!<br />
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Foto de grupo, jeje, con nieve y todo!!!<br />
Pico Paderna 2.622m!!!<br />
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Disfrutamos del día!!!, el estado de la nieve es inmejorable, claro que para hacer travesía!!!<br />
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Decidimos bajar por los Tubos de Paderna se gana algo de tiempo..., muy dura la bajada, todavía más nieve!!!<br />
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Ese es el Collado!!!<br />
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La Tuqueta.<br />
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La Tuca Blanca y arriba se observa el Alba, justo debajo de la marca del avión!!!<br />
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Al bajar diviso un precioso corredor para hacer!!!, situado en la Tuqueta!!!<br />
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La verdad es que el corredor tiene muy buena pinta!!!<br />
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Ése es el pico ascendido, visto desde la proximidad a los Tubos de Paderna!!!<br />
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Bajada por el primero de los tubos..., en invierno hay que informarse muy bien del estado de la nieve, porque estos tubos son una zona avalanchosa, algo peligrosa!!!<br />
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Bajada por el segundo tubo...<br />
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Y bajada por el tercero...<br />
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Y ya de vuelta a los Llanos!!!, precioso día de montaña...<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!</div>
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Nos vemos por el Monte!!!</div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-3038880576732188872013-11-16T11:20:00.000+01:002013-11-17T10:14:32.809+01:00Via Miqueluchi 140m V+, semi-equipada. Zona:Montroig-Pala Alta.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Este domingo, me fui a escalar con mi amigo y compañero de cordada "del Cinca Medio" Carlos. Esta vez nos acompañó Loren, juntos iríamos a escalar una bonita vía clásica, en estilo alpino, llamada "Diedre Blanqueta", que está situada en la zona del Montroig, sector Pala Alta ( en Internet encontrareis mucha información de cómo llegar al lugar).<br />
Al llegar, vimos que la vía estaba ocupada, había ya una cordada que estaba a punto de empezar y otras dos cordadas de franceses que ocupaban otras vías alternativas, entonces se nos ocurrió la idea de tomar la variante de inicio a la vía del Diedre, entrando por una vía que está a su derecha y que enlaza con ésta justo antes del largo del diedro y que en su parte final se desvía a la derecha, en un último largo sin equipar muy bonito. Decidimos ir a hacer esa vía, se llama Vía Miquelichi, 140m!!! Está catalogada como V+, pero en esta escuela los V+ son algo justos, se podría parecer más a un 6a, jeje...<br />
Aqui os dejo una fotos del croquis de las vias del sector de una pagina web muy interesante, en cuanto a reseñas de escalada; <a href="http://escalatroncs.wordpress.com/">http://escalatroncs.wordpress.com/</a> , estos tios lo hacen muy bien!!!<br />
Y su reseña de la via y de los largos...; <a href="http://escalatroncs.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/miqueluchi-pala-alta-montroig/">http://escalatroncs.wordpress.com/2010/12/22/miqueluchi-pala-alta-montroig/</a><br />
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Y otra de la vía que hicimos en cuestión, la única diferencia es que nosotros variemos la R3, siendo ésta nuestra R4 y un poco más abajo hicimos la R3, justo en el anterior circulo que sale marcado en la reseña de esta foto, justo al salir del primer tramo de diedro, donde hay montada una reunión alternativa y asegurar así más en corto el primer tramo de diedro.<br />
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Pues bien, aquí os dejo las fotos que sacamos de la vía y de nuestra experiencia, bonitas vías en este sector, con posibilidad de colocar "cacharros" y de disfrutar un poco con grado asequible.<br />
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Ésa es la zona del sector...<br />
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Éste es el aspecto de la clásica de este lugar, El Diedre Blanqueta.<br />
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Y la zona de arriba es donde están los tramos de diedro, muy chulos y perfectos!!!<br />
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Este es el primer largo de la Miqueluchi, que me toco abrirlo a mi, IV+, sin equipar...únicamente hay a mitad de vía en el espolón un puente de roca pero no lo vi en buen estado y lo re aseguré con un alien...<br />
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Foto de la R1.<br />
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Carlos saliendo hacia la R2.<br />
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L2 V, tramo de placa de muy buena adherencia.<br />
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Se puede ver a Carlos asegurándonos desde la R2.<br />
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R2, esperando a que avance la cordada que estaba en el Diedre Blanqueta.<br />
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Esta vez lo abrirá Loren, comenzara con un flanqueo hasta situarse justo debajo del inicio del diedro.<br />
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Os saco una foto del L2 V, la zona de placa.<br />
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Sale Loren..., a por el largo de V+.<br />
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Se sitúa justo en el inicio del diedro, hay posibilidad de colocar algún cacharro.<br />
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Loren monta nuestra R3 y vamos nosotros, este es parte del flanqueo que une la Miqueluchi con el Diedre, se unen en el diedro.<br />
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Una mirada hacia abajo para ver el aspecto de El Diedre Blanqueta..., ya que otro día vendremos hacerla solos con Loren.<br />
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Carlos comenzando el flanqueo y yo a punto de iniciar el diedro.<br />
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Éste es su aspecto...<br />
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Y éste su progreso...<br />
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Llegando a nuestra R3.<br />
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Foto desde nuestra R3, después de este resalte se encuentra la R3 que marcan los de Escalatrons...<br />
Este cuarto largo lo abriré yo, semiequipado!!!<br />
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Carlos y Loren en la R3, analizando el correcto cambio de cuerdas que se hace en cordada de tres..., importante maniobra!!!, la idea viene dada en quien llega de segundos y quien abrirá el siguiente largo, la idea esta en intercambiar cuerdas para que el que suba de primero se lleve los dos cabos de las cuerdas que han subido anteriormente de segundos y se han quedado encima del montón de la cuerda!!!<br />
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Momentos antes de iniciar mi largo L4, V+.<br />
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Coloco dos friends y un puente..<br />
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...y llego a nuestra R4.<br />
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Jeje..., corto pero bonito.<br />
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Bonitas vistas.<br />
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Sube Loren.<br />
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Y luego Carlos.<br />
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Ya en la R4, puedes tirar a diedro directo o seguir por la salida, <b><u>sin equipar</u></b>, de la Miqueluchi, nosotros seguimos por la Miqueluchi, abrirá Carlos. El diedro es acojo nante, sencillamente es perfecto, nos da algo de coraje no seguir por él, pero ha escalar hemos venido los tres y hay que ser generosos con todos, pues Carlos esta vía ya la ha echo en varias ocasiones pero esta variante final no y nos hace ilusión de que lo haga y disfrute de nuevas sensaciones, otro día vendremos nosotros y haremos el diedro.<br />
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Yo ahora a esperar...<br />
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Parte inicial fisura-da, V+, bonita...<br />
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Llega Carlos, monta la R5 y nosotros para arriba.<br />
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Este largo como he dicho comienza con una bonita fisura y al terminar ésta, está la opción de salir por la izquierda 6a o flanquear hacia la derecha V+ hacia una sabina y luego hacia arriba otra ves, optamos por esta segunda opción.<br />
Éste es parte del flanqueo.<br />
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Ahí me tenéis haciendo una foto y recuperando el material de la sabina.<br />
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Carlos asegurándome en la R5.<br />
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Y salida al final de la vía.<br />
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Nuevo Reto superado, vía Miqueluchi 140m, V+, semiequipado!!!<br />
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Gracias Carlos por traernos y por tus lecciones de escalada!!!<br />
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Y ya a la bajada, contemplamos las paredes de este magnífico lugar..., para volver pronto, seguro!!!<br />
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<b>Un saludo a todos y feliz escalada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!</b></div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-78289942941541711552013-11-13T19:37:00.000+01:002013-11-13T19:54:00.409+01:00Los Encantats (Canal Central)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Nos fuimos hacia tierras catalanas, esta vez nuestro destino nos situaba en el pueblo de Espot (Lleida), pues el Reto del día era el de intentar enlazar las dos cimas de los Encantats, situados en el Parque Nacional de Aigüestortes-Sant Maurici. Forman una bonita muralla. Son dos cimas gemelas de gran aspecto alpino, a pies del precioso lago de Sant Maurici. En la brecha que une las dos cimas, se puede apreciar la silueta de dos puntas, que dan nombre a estas cimas, pues cuenta la leyenda que son las figuras de los dos cazadores convertidos en piedra como castigo por reírse de los Romeros que iban a peregrinar en aquella época a la ermita de Sant Maurici.<br />
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<img src="http://www.madteam.net/fotografia/imagen.php/9223.jpg" /><br />
(Foto sacada de Internet de los picos vistos desde el Lago Sant Maurici)<br />
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Nuestra ascensión parte, accediendo al Parque Nacional, por el pueblo de Espot. Desde el mismo parquing has de dejar el coche, accedes por una pista, GR11, hacia el refugio de Ernest Mallafré 4km (1hora). De allí se ha de coger una senda en dirección sur, hasta el inicio de la brecha (20min.), desde donde da comienzo la ascensión, por una pronunciada canal a la que llaman Canal Central. En invierno se suele formar un corredor, max.60º. Desde allí accedes a la brecha que separa los dos cimas gemelas; por la izquierda accedes al Petit Encantat 2.734m, que presenta tramos de escalada max.V y el de la derecha, el Gran Encantat 2.748m max III/III+. Aconsejo regresar por el itinerario normal de ascenso al Gran Encantat (por el Collado de los Encantats, al cual se accede por la Valleta Seca), ya que destrepar la canal puede ser algo peligroso.<br />
El acceso a la brecha suele costar entorno a las 2,30h o 3 horas!!!Su grado es de III/III+, quizá alguno de IV pero puntual y sin compromiso, según te embarques. La roca en el primer tramos el algo delicada y está algo rota, tener cuidado de no tirar piedras!!!<br />
El Canal se divide en dos tramos, separados por una especie de descansillo escalonado y herboso, para continuar hacia el segundo tramo, que discurre directo, a través de una ancha fisura en placa muy agradable y disfrutona y por el que se progresa muy bien, el último tramo antes de llegar a la brecha se descompone algo y vuelve aparecer el mal estado de la roca.<br />
El grupo lo formábamos; Carmen, Loren y yo. Nuestra intención inicial era la de intentar hacer las dos cimas, al final decidimos abandonar el ascenso del Petit, un poco antes de llegar al largo de placa IV, pues se nos hacia ya algo tarde pasa seguir, nos había costado bastante encontrar el inicio de la vía, pues esperábamos que fuera más evidente, está mal señalizada, parte un copo antes de llegar a la misma brecha. Volveremos otra vez para intentarlo, esta vez esperaremos a que se forme el corredor y podamos disfrutarlo un poco más, jeje!!!<br />
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Ermita de Sant Maurici...<br />
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Llegada al refugio Ernest Mallafré, buenos recuerdos de cuando hicimos Carros de Foç!!!<br />
Justo a la derecha de la foto, entre los árboles, parte la senda que te lleva; al inicio de la canal central o siguiendo recto, a la Valleta Seca (vía normal de acceso al Gran Encantat).<br />
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Allí los tenéis, bonitos no, desde el mismo lago su aspecto impresiona, cuando los vi por primera vez, supe que algún día subiría a ellos!!!<br />
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Al fondo el bonito lago de Sant Maurici.<br />
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Y detrás las Agujas de Amitges!!!, buen lugar de escalada!!!<br />
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Impresiona no!!!<br />
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Justo llegamos y tres chicos empezaban a escalar, por lo que tuvimos que esperar un poco para no ir tan pegados, por el tema de las piedras!!!<br />
Les hice algunas fotos.<br />
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Con Carmen, momentos antes de empezar!!!<br />
Mención importante para esta pedazo de montañera; varios cuatromiles ya a sus espaldas, atrevida cómo ninguna y muy buena compañera, no se puede tener quejas de ella, pues se adapta a todo y se atreve con todo, me quito el sombreo!!!<br />
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Empezamos algo mal, decidimos coger la salida por la izquierda, pero se nos complicó con algún que otro flanqueo delicado, que nos hizo perder algo de tiempo, jeje, ésto aveces pasa!!!<br />
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No te encuentras con ningún mojón, éso inquieta, pues llega un momento que no se intuye muy bien por donde tirar...<br />
Pero bueno todos los caminos llevan a Roma!!!<br />
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Éste para mi es el tramo conflictivo, tras el descansillo herboso, te encuentras con varias posibilidades; por la izquierda o por la derecha..., a falta de señales, tiramos por la izquierda, pues se veía más evidente, según e leído están las dos opciones, las dos llevan a la fisura central.<br />
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Que nos paso???, que una vez arriba, vimos señales en la otra cara y decidimos rapelar y seguir por ellas y así, no embarcarnos.<br />
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Una vez ya solventado el problema, volvemos a encontrar señales de paso, nos encontramos ya con el último tramo herboso, antes de meternos en la parte final de la canal, la parte mas encajonada.<br />
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Una canal muy bonita como veis, placa y bonita fisura, bonitos pasos técnicos de progreso!!!, técnica de avance en diedros.<br />
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Me imagino ésto con nieve, que guapo debe de ser!!!<br />
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Alguna risa que otra propio de nosotros, hay momentos para todo en las ascensiones!!!<br />
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Muy cerca ya de la brecha, buscando la entrada a la vía de escalada donde comienza el Petit, pero no la vemos, las reseñas cuentan que se coge un poco antes de llegar a la brecha!!!<br />
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Vemos ya a los cazadores fosilizados!!!<br />
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Bonita y rápida progresión!!!<br />
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Giramos a nuestra izquierda para ver si podemos encontrar la vía, la cosa cada vez se complica más y lo estamos haciendo todo a pelo, incluso algún que otro pasito de casi IV!!!, roca suelta y delicado terreno..., seguimos pero no encontramos el inicio de la vía, a lo lejos parece brillar algo, puede ser una chapa???, vamos hacia ella.<br />
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Intuimos desde abajo la vía en cuestión, reconozco rápido la oreja dibujada en la pared e leído sobre ella, por allí va la vía, justo debajo de la placa de IV..., pero no logramos ver la reunión inicial y por donde se empieza, decidimos improvisar...<br />
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Montamos una reunión improvisada en un saliente y me tiro hacer el primer largo, en teoría no debe de pasar de III, pero al iniciarla, siguiendo un clavo en la pared y chaparlo, veo que la cosa se complica mucho, empiezo a creer que ésta quizá no sea la vía, quizá estemos en otra, hay varias...sigo, coloco un clavo para asegurar un paso delicado y muy roto, luego un puente de roca, ...prosigo, la roca está quebradiza y muy delicada, mucha posibilidad de caída de piedras..., continuo y llego a un descansillo, me giro y veo una reunión más abajo, no era la vía!!!, miro la hora, ya es tarde, se levanta un viento muy fuerte y frió, saco la reseña e inspecciono la vía y los siguientes largos, uff queda mucho!!!..., decidimos abandonar y dejarlo para otro día!!!<br />
Monto el rapel y bajamos, todavía nos queda encontrar el camino de ascenso al Gran...<br />
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Loren desde la R inicial, el saliente de más arriba es donde hemos llegado sin éxito...<br />
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Frente a nosotros el inicio de la vía del Gran...max.III/III+, ascensión muy delicada, cómo toda la vía en cuestión, no ya por su grado, que es bastante mantenido, sino por el estado de la roca y por la continua exposición de todo el ascenso!!!<br />
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Iniciamos el ascenso, sin saber muy bien por donde nos llevará...<br />
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Nos cruzamos con uno de los cazadores!!!<br />
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Mientras subimos, vamos observando la vía de escalada para volver otro día, lo analizamos detenidamente.<br />
Se puede ver la oreja dibujada..., justo debajo decidimos abandonar, en ese saliente que se ve..., podemos apreciar que nos quedaba mucho...<br />
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Dura subida, delicada...tener mucho cuidado con las piedras y sobre todo aquí, procurar no tener ningún descuido!!!<br />
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Que lejos queda ya el inicio!!!<br />
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Que bonito lugar, de repente se para el aire, y el sol luce radiante!!!<br />
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Últimos metros, buscando algún acceso cimero bonito!!!<br />
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Y al fin en la ansiada cima, El Gran Encantat!!!<br />
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Detrás nuestro el Petit, que lástima!!!, precioso pico que estoy seguro algún día subiré y será pronto!!!<br />
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Bonitas vistas!!!<br />
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Me quedo impactado, me imagino esta zona en invierno, cuantos corredores se deben de formar..., habrá que venir más por estos lares!!!<br />
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Al fondo el Peguera, que recuerdos, lo hice en solitario!!!<br />
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Investigamos la bajada, intentando localizar el inicio. Se puede montar sendos rapeles que con 30m es suficiente, pero sino, se puede destrepar...<br />
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Foto de cima!!!!<br />
Gran Encantat 2.748m.<br />
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Ése para otro día!!!<br />
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Decidimos rapelar pues bajaremos más rápidos y seguros!!!<br />
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Llegamos al Collado y...<br />
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Joder la bajada que nos queda...<br />
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Llegamos al fondo de la brecha, y ya estamos en la Valleta Seca. Bajaremos bordeando la pared hacia el refugio, está bien indicado el camino.<br />
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Y en poco rato ya nos encontramos muy cerca del refugio donde pararemos a comer algo!!!, y luego en 4km llegamos al coche...<br />
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Espero que os haya gustado la aventureta!!! hasta otra amigos. Muchas gracias por seguirme, espero que algún día, todos los Retos de mis sueños se puedan hacer realidad!!!<br />
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<b>Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!</b></div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-3479105928835370782013-10-03T19:07:00.000+02:002013-10-04T16:31:40.365+02:00Cresta de los Russell. 6 tresmiles!!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Hola a todos otra vez!!, unos días de parón por cuestiones laborales y vuelta a las andadas, cómo tiene que ser!!!<br />
Esta vez os llevaré a conocer los famosos picos Russell. Su nombre les viene dado por el famoso exploraror, el Conde Russell, pionero de tantos y gran amante de nuestra cordillera Pirenaica. Fue uno de los grandes pirineistas del siglo XIX. Se dedicó gran parte de su vida a viajar por todo el mundo, luego todo ello lo escribió, para que las gentes de aquella época, conocieran todos aquellos magníficos lugares.<br />
<b><u>Acceso:</u></b> Para llegar a ellos, has de dirigirte al Plan de Senarta (Valle de Benasque), y coger la pista hacia Ballibierna (11km, cerrada en verano, colocan un bus con horarios criminales y muy caro).<br />
Llegas al refugio de Ballibierna y de allí, siguiendo el GR11, te diriges hacia el Ibón de Llosás...<br />
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Quedamos en Monzón a las 5 de la madrugada, había dormido poco ese día...He de decir, que hacia ya tiempo que tenia ganas de hacer los Russell, pues son unos picos que siempre me habían llamado la atención pero que nunca había tenido la ocasión de ir hacerlos, la verdad es que no se porqué.<br />
Esta vez el grupo lo formábamos; Loren, Santi, Mª Jesús y yo. Son picos fáciles, creo yo, max. III/III+(ascenso a la Aguja SW Russell). Deciros que es una zona muy peligrosa, por la posibilidad de desprendimientos de rocas, la zona está muy quebrada y descompuesta!!!<br />
Es una travesía donde de rápido ascenso al primer tresmil del día. Subiendo bien, puedes hacer el primero tresmil en 3 horitas, jeje!!!, Hay muchas reseñas que te explican cómo enlazarlos todos, depende de cada uno cómo lo quiera hacer, deciros que la única pega que le veo es que la Aguja SW, está un poco aislada.<br />
Comienzo a relataros esta bonita historieta montañera, espero que os guste!!!<br />
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<b><u>Desnivel + acumulado:</u> 1.730m.</b><br />
<b><u>Distancia:</u> 20,2km.</b><br />
<b><u>Tiempo estimado: </u>11h (incluyendo descansos, se puede hacer en menos)</b><br />
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Cuando llegamos al refugio justo empezaba amanecer. Lo preparamos todo y partimos rumbo a los picos Russell, que son esos de allí!!!<br />
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A medida que vas ascendiendo, vas dejando a la derecha el Ballibierna y el Culebres, Muy asequible para la gente que quiera empeezar en ésto!<br />
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Justo detrás amanece ya en el Perdiguero...<br />
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En poco tiempo nos situamos muy próximos a la Pleta de Losás, desde donde ya empezamos a discernir los que serán nuestros objetivos, se aprecia la brecha de Tempestades!!!, justo a su izquierda se divisa nuestro Aneto. En el centro de la foto se puede observar también la brecha de Russell.<br />
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Ésa es la Brecha Russell, justo a su izquierda el Margalida y a su derecha nuestro primer tresmil del día, Pico Brecha Russell.<br />
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...Y ésta es la Brecha de Tempestades, y a la izquierda de la foto cómo os decía antes, el Aneto!!!<br />
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Y ya a nuestras espaldas, por nuestro flanco derecho, vamos dejando a tras el Ballibierna!!<br />
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Muy cerca ya del Ibón grande de Llosás, en frente y comandando el grupo, Loren, jeje!!!<br />
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Precioso y sombrío lugar al que nos acercamos. Justo encima y a nuestro alrededor, una corona de crestas desafían nuestros sentidos, que poco me queda ya por hacer en este lugar, hoy daré otro pequeño paso para completar toda la cordada de crestas de esta zona, para mi la mejor del Pirineo.<br />
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A nuestra izquierda, la cresta de Llosás con sus agujas que hace muy poco hice, que recuerdos me trae al verla!!!<br />
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Llegamos al Ibón de Llosás.<br />
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Ahora se ha de bordear el lago hacia la derecha...y continuar por ese canal.<br />
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Pero antes, decidimos parar para; reagrupar el grupo y comer algo antes de continuar, la próxima parada ya sera en el Pico Brecha Russell.<br />
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Continuamos por donde os decía, dejando a la izquierda el Ibón...<br />
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Y desde aquí volver a girar a la izquierda en dirección NE, ascendiendo por la loma, para ganar rápido altura y llegar al circo de Tempestades, circo de grandes bloques, desde donde se puede ya apreciar a la izquierda su pico, el Tempestades.<br />
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Éste es, bonito pico, no?<br />
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Justo a su derecha, el lío del día, jeje..., desde aquí, ya se puede observar la brecha de ascenso a la ancha arista cimera de los Russell, es la brecha que sale más arriba, no confundir con una que hay un poco más abajo!!!<br />
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Sale el sol y el día es radiante, cómo se agradece estos momentos en la Montaña, que vistas!!!<br />
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Aquí os dejo una pequeña reseña de cómo se inicia este recorrido, creo que es la mejor manera de atacar estos pico y la más rápida. Aconsejo ir primero al Pico Brecha y luego en altura, seguir toda la cresta hacia los demás, volver deshaciendo el camino recorrido pero esta vez descender por la brecha marcada en azul, desde el Russell principal, bajando así otra vez de vuelta "al pedregal", para continuar valle a bajo, en dirección sur, y bordear la pared hacia la Aguja SW por detrás, que se deja para el final.<br />
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Ésa es la Aguja SW, la que se hace al final, ya bajando. Se ha de hacer por detrás, por el otro canal.<br />
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Delicado terreno este, tener cuidado con los grandes bloques, muchos se mueven porque no están bien asentados, son bloques que seguramente habrán caído esta primavera, te puedes quedar atrapado en ellos, yo casi tuve un serio percance con uno.<br />
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Aquí me tenéis marcando le a mis compañeros una posibilidad de ascenso directo a través de una serie de brechas que hay en la parte superior izquierda (creo haberlo visto en alguna reseña), pero la zona está un poco delicada, los bloques no son muy seguros. Deciros que esta travesía, en casi todo el recorrido, es bastante pelibrosa, estas en muchos momentos expuesto a la posible caída de algún que otro bloque de la pared, ya que continuamente discurres por la misma y bajo ella, tener cuidado y vigilar lo mucho, tener también cuidado para los compañeros que llevéis detrás o estén subiendo, aconsejo ir todos juntos o muy separados!!!<br />
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Dejamos atrás todo el canchal y comenzamos a subir...<br />
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Éste es el aspecto de la brecha de bajada directa, la que os marco en azul, por la que luego se baja desde el Russell principal.<br />
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Subiendo también le sacamos alguna foto a la aguja SW.<br />
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Había leído en reseñas, que un poco antes de la mitad de la brecha, se puede abandonar ésta y dirigirse directos a la cima, girando hacia la izquierda mediante otra diagonal, coges un canal hasta la misma cima. Lo encontramos, estaba marcado con mojones su inicio.<br />
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Llegas al primer tresmil, Pico Brecha Russell 3.192m.<br />
Y a nuestra derecha, al fondo, el Russell principal, se ve en esta foto.<br />
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Al otro lado de la pared y desde la cima se puede apreciar la famosa cresta de Salenques, que tenemos prevista hacer al año que viene, sera grande, es una de las tres más importantes y difíciles de nuestro Pirineo, creo que podré estar a la altura!!!<br />
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Pico Brecha Russell!!! primero del día, justo detrás se ve el final de Salenques, "la Cabecera de Salenques" con el Margalida y más atrás al fondo, el Aneto!!!<br />
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La observo detenidamente (Cresta Salenques), pues he de enfrentarme pronto a ella, lo haré en igualdad de condiciones y será una dura pelea, espero salir vencedor!!!<br />
<b>La admiro, no puedo pensar en todo el camino recorrido, cuantos Retos superados!!! A veces retrocedo en el tiempo e intento recordar mis comienzos... Y ya ves. ahora estoy aquí frente a ella, sabiendo que pronto nos encontraremos cara a cara, ..."te saludo y te admiro como una de las grandes, nos vemos pronto compañera y rival"...</b><br />
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Ya se ve gente en el Aneto.<br />
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Foto de cima, Pico Brecha Russell 3.192m.<br />
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Continuamos fácil hasta el Pico Russell.<br />
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Emerge a lo lejos la Cresta de Cregueña!!!<br />
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Loren jeje, prepárate para la de Salenques!!!<br />
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Llegamos al Russell y ya se aprecia el tercero, Russell SE.<br />
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Nos hacemos primero una foto en el Russell 3.207m.<br />
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Bajando un poco de la cima, se observa el paso fácil que se ha de seguir para llegar a el Russell SE, a través de un flanqueo roto por la derecha.<br />
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Salvando estas dos primeras agujas, recomiendo ir a toda cresta, es más rápido y seguro, yo así lo hice!!!<br />
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Éste es el Flanqueo, hasta el tercer pico.<br />
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Yo tiré hacia la cresta, se avanza mejor!!!<br />
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Y coroné rápido, jeje...<br />
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Foto del tercero, Russell SE 3.205m.<br />
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Desde la cima se ha de continuar hasta la intersección de las aristas, desde allí se puede abandonar el material y bajar al Russell Oriental, luego hay que volver a subir!!!<br />
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Para luego ir hacer la Aguja Sup. de Russell, esa de allí!!!<br />
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Pero primero hay que bajar al Russell Oriental, joder que faena!!!, 150m de bajada!!!<br />
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Y que bajada...<br />
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Ése es...<br />
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Bonito des trepe..., yo luego decidí probar a subir por ese canalizo, creo que me fue bien la prueba, avancé más rápido!!!<br />
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Desde el Pico se aprecia muy bien todo Salenques!!!<br />
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Bonita bajada, no creéis?<br />
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Pico Russell Oriental 3.034m.<br />
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Ésto es lo que os decía, baje al canal y ascendí por el, está todo roto pero creo que no me fue mal la cosa!!!<br />
Me adelanté bastante...<br />
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Aproveché para bajar a comprobar el estado y el acceso a la siguiente aguja..., dejé la mochila, saqué la cuerda y fui a por ella.<br />
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Bonita aguja, si señor, pero el terreno está algo roto.<br />
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Me encontré con ésto, un delicado des trepe, al estar roto lo aseguré con la cuerda, cómo medida de precaución y baje por ella.<br />
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Y frente a mi la Aguja Sup. de Russell.<br />
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Dejé instalada la cuerda para los demás y como tardaban mucho fui a por ella, jeje!!!<br />
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Y cima, quinto tresmil!!!<br />
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Un saludo Blogueros!!!, ya casi los tengo,..."no se, creo que el tiempo empeora, nos dejará terminar?"...<br />
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Mientras, llegan éstos y les grabo al bajar!!!<br />
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<b>Tener cuidado con las piedras, vigilar mucho la zona, una caída de una de ellas y...</b><br />
<b>Vigilar a los compañeros..., e ir muy juntos o bien separados e aquí una muestra de ello.</b><br />
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Un pequeño flanqueo expuesto por la izquierda y en un momento en la cima (II+).<br />
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Bonito lugar, no lo conocía!!!<br />
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Apa Santi!!!<br />
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Le digo a Loren que se suba la cuerda por si hubiera que asegurar al volver al flanqueo expuesto, pero no nos hizo falta, fue fácil!!!, no está demás prevenir!!!<br />
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Venga MªJesús!!!<br />
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Aguja Sup.Russell 3.146m.<br />
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Éste es el flanqueo, es algo expuesto pero fácil!!!<br />
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Vuelta a subir!!!<br />
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Y ahora a por la Aguja SW..., ése es el canal de subida (III/III+).<br />
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Haber si el tiempo nos deja!!!<br />
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Retrocedemos nuestros pasos hasta el Russell, para coger allí (seguir mojones), el acceso a la brecha de bajada, marcada antes en azul.<br />
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Me adelanto, ellos han parado a comer, decido tirar para abajo y salir de la brecha mientras ellos bajan.<br />
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Llego a la brecha y ésta es la bajada, es fácil!!!<br />
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Desde aquí, os indico la vira por la que subimos al primero del día, se ve bien marcado el canal...<br />
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Mientras los demás a lo suyo, jeje!!!<br />
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Una mirada atrás...<br />
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Entonces aparecen ellos.<br />
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Ya abajo salgo de la zona de exposición de piedras y los espero...<br />
Ése es nuestro ultimo del día!!!, hay que bajar para bordearlo por detrás y coger el canal de subida.<br />
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Éste canal es más delicado.<br />
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Al bordear la aguja, contemplo posibles vías de escalada para el futuro, aquí se puede venir a experimentar algún día!!!<br />
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Os dejo algunas fotos.<br />
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Luego ya todos, volvemos abandonar el material y vamos a buscar la brecha, nos llevamos dos cordinos de 30m, por si hay que rapelar en la bajada.<br />
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Llegamos y vemos instalada una cuerda, aprovechamos y subimos por ella, hay un pasito delicado (III+).<br />
Se puede hacer en libre tranquilamente pero con cuidado.<br />
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Y cima, sexto del día!!!<br />
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Aguja SW. Russell 3.029m.<br />
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<b>Aconsejo bajar rapelando, pero se puede llegar a des trepar, pero es algo expuesto!!!</b><br />
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Y reto superado, 6 en el día, ya tengo todos los Russell, que no es poco!!!<br />
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Una mira atrás!!!<br />
Bonito y grandioso lugar...<br />
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Y que bonita se ve a estas horas de la tarde la cresta de Llosás!!!<br />
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Con sus Agujas!!!<br />
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Día grande amigos!!!<br />
Bonita foto me saca Santi!!!<br />
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Curiosos reflejos!!!<br />
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Adiós Russell, hasta otra, cuando esté por Salenque me acordaré de ti!!!<br />
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<b>Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!</b></div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-19010121035696004522013-09-17T11:41:00.001+02:002013-09-17T13:18:21.377+02:00Iñaki Ochoa de Olza<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Aquí os dejo un precioso vídeo (Pura Vida), del intento de rescate de Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, muerto en la cara Sur del Annapurna a 7.400m de altitud...Un intento de rescate protagonizado por sus amigos, los mejores alpinistas del mundo!!! Murió el 23 de Mayo del 2008 después de 5 días de agonía, de un edema pulmonar y cerebral...Ese día, el mundo perdió a uno de los más grandes alpinistas del Mundo!!!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Os dejo aquí el link de acceso al vídeo!!!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span>
<a href="http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/el-documental/documental-pura-vida-vida-inaki/1722450/">http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/el-documental/documental-pura-vida-vida-inaki/1722450/</a><br />
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<b>Un saludo a todos</b></div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-19007668702549893872013-09-05T18:24:00.002+02:002013-09-07T18:40:29.654+02:00Arista Ferbos al Pic des Trois Conseillers 3.039m. AD SUP.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Os presento una preciosa y apasionante salida por el precioso valle francés de Néouvielle, nos fuimos hacer la famosa Arista Ferbos (AD Sup.) hacia el pico De los Tres Consejeros.<br />
Esta vez iría acompañado sólo por mi gran amigo Loren. Era un gran reto para los dos, pues es una arista que no conocíamos. Nos intrigaba saber si seriamos capaces de hacerlo, sabíamos que sí y que estábamos preparados para ello. Sabíamos que sería duro, que quizá algún paso pudiera ser comprometido pero sabíamos que podríamos hacer realidad este pequeño sueño.<br />
Hace dos años llegué a este mismo lugar, acompañado de mi amigo Carlos Rico, juntos ese día ascendimos al Neouvielle por la arista de los Tres Consellers, fue fantástico y muy emocionante, a nuestra izquierda emergía grandiosa la Ferbos!!!, desde ese día supe que algún día volvería, volvería para escalar la Ferbos!!!<br />
Es un lugar increíble, para llegar a él, has de pasar a Francia por Bielsa, bajar el puerto hasta el pueblo de Fabian y de allí coger a la izquierda una carretera que asciende 1.100m hasta una gran presa, Cap de Long. Es un lugar muy bonito, idílico, majestuoso. En él, incluso hay un par de restaurantes y suele ser visitado por muchos turistas, es un magnífico puerto para los amantes de la bicicleta.<br />
<b><u>Datos de la arista:</u></b> Es una arista catalogada como AD+(algo difícil superior), eso significa que presenta algún que otro pasito de IV/IV+. Está situada frente al Lac de Cap de Long, en el valle francés de Néouvielle y concluye en el Pico de los Tres Consejeros con 3.039m. Su recorrido presenta un desnivel de 450m y unos 800m de longitud. Buena roca con numerosos pasos de III/III+, descenso por la brecha de Neouvielle (posible rapel de 25m, por rimaya), presenta un paso de IV+(diedro) que puede ser flanqueado por la izquierda. <u>Material fundamental:</u> una cuerda de 50m (podría valer) o dos de 60m (por ser arista), varios cordinos largos (van muy bien para meter en salientes), varias cintas largas y un juego de friends. Nos costó 4 horas, más dos de aproximación a la base de la arista, más casi tres de bajada y contar los descansos.<br />
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Pasamos la noche en la misma presa, dentro de mi tienda, nos levantamos a las 5.30h.<br />
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Pronto amanece en este majestuoso valle, frente a nosotros la Arista,... perfecta!!!<br />
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Loren la observa maravillado, analiza los posibles puntos calientes...<br />
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Yo voy delante, reconociendo la senda. Al principio, según sales de la presa, es fácil coger algún que otro tramo de senda equivocado, que te haga retroceder...<br />
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Pronto paramos para sacarnos algo de ropa...<br />
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El sol aparece a nuestras espaldas, ilumina el objetivo, nos lo presenta,..., ya queda poco para enfrentarnos a él, solos, en ese lugar tan increíble.<br />
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Bonita arista, ninguno hablamos, sólo apreciamos su belleza. Nos parece increíble estar hoy aquí, toda una aventura!!!<br />
Aquí os dejo una pequeña reseña de la actividad.<br />
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Comentar que la senda, que parte desde la presa, al principio gana mucha altura (es algo delicada), siguiendo el GR10, llega un momento que dejamos de seguirlo y continuamos a nuestra izquierda, abandonamos el GR10, éste continua hacia arriba, hacia el Pas du Chat.<br />
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Poco a poco, a medida que nos acercamos, vamos entrando en calor, calor producido; por la incertidumbre, por esas ganas locas por empezar, por saber cómo saldrá todo, estamos seguros, seguros de que lo que vamos a conseguir, sabemos que estamos preparados y llevamos material suficiente...<br />
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Nuestras caras lo dicen todo, ésto promete, será una gran aventura!!!<br />
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Que día hemos elegido, nada puede salir mal!!!<br />
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Frente a nosotros la Arista Ferbos.<br />
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Al llegar próximos a ella, intentamos localizar la brecha de acceso a la arista, es fácil reconocerla, en la foto es la fisura negra que hay a la izquierda, creo que es el acceso más evidente y más fácil...<br />
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Pero nosotros no subimos por él, encontramos una vira, un poco más a la derecha que nos parece más directa y bonita. Guiados por nuestra intuición y quizá por las ganas locas de experimentar nuevas sensaciones, sin pensarlo vamos hacia ella, jeje...embarcando nos en una nueva aventura, desconocida. Pronto nos damos cuenta de que necesitaremos sacar las cuerdas y asegurar los siguientes largos si queremos llegar a la arista, pues la cosa se complica. Necesitamos realizar tres largos de acceso a la arista; uno a pelo y dos asegurados. El segundo le toca a Loren, placa expuesta y delicada IV.<br />
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Una mirada hacia tras!!!<br />
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Aquí os muestro la fisura de acceso normal...<br />
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Y éste es parte de nuestro acceso, bonito no??<br />
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Primeros pasos, hay que romper el hielo.<br />
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En este punto, cómo os decía la cosa se complica, no ya por su grado sino más por su exposición, no puede haber fallos si seguimos sin cuerda, decidimos asegurar...<br />
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Vistas a la arista de los Tres Conseiller al Néouvielle desde la R1.<br />
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Abre Loren..., largo más comprometido.<br />
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Una mirada abajo desde la R1, cómo os decía la cosa se complicaba..., pero he de decir que si tuviera que volver, volvería otra vez por aquí.<br />
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Foto desde la R2, tercer largo!!!, me toca a mi.<br />
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Loren en la R2, detrás suyo se puede apreciar el tramo de placa escalonada.<br />
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Foto muy cerca ya de el acceso a la arista, largo 3º.<br />
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Llego a la arista y grito, reunión!!!!, me giro y por un momento me asusto, creo que me encuentro en el cielo, este lugar es lo mas parecido a él!!!<br />
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Entonces sube Loren.<br />
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A partir de aquí, decidimos avanzar haciendo largos, pues no sabemos lo que nos vamos a encontrar, pues nuestra intención inicial era la de hacerlo en ensamble, pero vimos enseguida que nos haría falta mucho más material, se emplean muchos cordinos y cintas largas.<br />
Continuará Loren y luego yo..., se hace así por el tema del material y el posicionamiento de la recogida de la cuerda. Creo que debimos hacer en total, con cuerda de 50m, sobre 10/12 largos o quizá más!!!<br />
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La verdad que el día era increíble, ideo!!!<br />
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Al fondo a nuestra izquierda la cresta norte del Piç Long, esa nos queda pendiente!!!<br />
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Toda la arista es del mismo grado III/III+(mantenido), con pasos de IV si te embarcas y no sabes muy bien interpretarla.<br />
La roca es muy buena, vigilar posibles piedras sueltas!!! e intentar avanzar siempre por su filo.<br />
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Te encuentras con algunos tramos de placa, muy bonitos!!!<br />
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Es muy entretenida y no da tregua, su nivel es muy mantenido y disfrutas mucho...<br />
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Bonita cresta que tengo que estudiar del Piç Long.<br />
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Bonito largo...<br />
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Os la recomiendo!!!<br />
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Bonito flanqueo...<br />
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Interesantes pasos...<br />
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Este largo de placa me toca a mi jiji...<br />
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Tras hacerlo monto la reunión para que suba Loren.<br />
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Loren estoy aquí arriba!!!<br />
No estaría de más el llevar walkies, si hubiera hecho viento, casi no nos hubiéramos oido, la arista presenta muchas puntas y hace que en muchas ocasiones no te oigas con tu compañero.<br />
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Llega y continua él.<br />
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Frente a nosotros, encontramos ya el paso clave. Un diedro de IV+, bonito y disfruton, le toca hacerlo a Loren, que rabia!!!, habíamos subido los pies de gato pero toda la arista se hace muy bien con botas.<br />
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Le dije de continuar hasta su base y allí decidir cómo afrontarlo.<br />
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Al llegar me dice que se ve muy bien y que tira, hubiera sido bueno asegurarlo más en corto!<br />
Me dice que se ve fácil.<br />
Os dejo una secuencia de fotos.<br />
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Muy bien Loren, eres grande!!!<br />
Ha colocado dos friends en la fisura.<br />
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Y llego yo jiji...<br />
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Saliendo de él.<br />
Dos o tres largos más y creo que ya estaremos en la cima.<br />
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Muy bien, lo estamos haciendo muy bien...<br />
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No os digo lo que sentimos porque no lo puedo expresar..., estamos consiguiendo algo grande para nosotros!!! y en este lugar, juzgarlo vosotros!!!<br />
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A nuestra izquierda el Turon de Néouvielle, lo queremos hacer pero creo que se hará tarde.<br />
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Continuamos, bonito largo!!!<br />
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A nuestra derecha el Ramoung.<br />
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Y el paraíso a nuestros pies.<br />
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Bonita foto Loren, pareces uno de los grandes.<br />
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Y yo colgado de una piedra, jeje...<br />
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A nuestra derecha el Neouviell, creo que hay gente observándonos!!!<br />
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Últimos largos, la cosa se suaviza..<br />
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Pero todavía nos queda un bonito tramo de placa..., podría haber tirado por el filo pero me gustó mucho más este pequeño diedro tumbado.<br />
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Loren abriendo ya el último largo, sin saberlo...<br />
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Al llegar a la R, me dice Loren que la cima está aquí mismo, a aparecido de la nada!!!<br />
Joder, que contento estoy, orgulloso...<br />
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En el Neouvielle, creo que nos han visto llegar!!!, creo que oyen mis gritos de alegría!!!<br />
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Reto superado..., si!!!<br />
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Esta cresta la dejamos para otro día, ya es algo tarde y aún no hemos comido nada desde el desayuno, yo casi no tengo hambre, me como dos bombones y media naranja ,jeje!!!, eso si reponemos líquido.<br />
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Estamos muy contentos, hemos logrado algo muy importante para nosotros, hemos dado otro pequeño paso de gigante, creo que estas pequeñas hazañas son más importantes para nosotros, que para otros las suyas, dicen mucho de lo que nos gusta y de cómo lo vivimos. Lo hemos conseguido solos y lo hemos hecho perfecto!!!<br />
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El Vignemale!!!<br />
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Arista Ferbos, Cima de los Tres Consejeros 3.039m.<br />
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Llega otra cordada...<br />
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Disfrutamos un poco de lo conseguido y para abajo.<br />
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Frente a mi, la arista que ya hice hace dos años con Carlos.<br />
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Éste es su comienzo.<br />
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Desde la brecha de Neouvielle, bajamos hacia el valle.<br />
Algo delicado, vigilar la posible caída de piedras, recomiendo casco.<br />
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En esta época se abre la rimaya y en ocasiones has de montar rapel para bajar y pasar por debajo del nevero...<br />
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30m hasta la base de la rimaya.<br />
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Nuestra salida.<br />
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Éste es el rapel.<br />
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Le digo a Loren que me adelanto, hemos dejado abandonado material en la base de la arista, mientras él se queda a recoger la cuerda.<br />
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Retomamos la senda original y a celebrarlo!!!<br />
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Bonita arista, si señor!!!, que orgulloso estoy.<br />
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Unos franceses a nuestra llegada nos dan la enhorabuena, les pedimos que nos hagan unas fotos!!!<br />
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Gracias a ti Montaña por este día, gracias por dejarnos subir a tus cimas, por dejarnos seducirte, por dejarnos conquistarte,...gracias sobre todo por protegernos y permitir que hoy 1 de Septiembre del 2013, podamos decir ya que nosotros una vez recorrimos la preciosa y famosa Arista Ferbos.<br />
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<b>Un saludo a todos y feliz andada,</b></div>
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<b> nos vemos por el Monte!!!</b></div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-15803596558292039262013-08-16T16:25:00.000+02:002013-08-16T19:49:40.138+02:00ANETO, por la Cresta de Llosas AD (9 tresmiles).<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Esta vez si amigos, al segundo intento, conseguimos enlazar toda la cresta de Llosas y llegar así al Aneto; triunfales, orgullosos y muy muy felices..., toda una experiencia!!!, conseguimos enlazar ese día un total de 9 tresmiles (si contamos el Argarot Sur).<br />
El año pasado nos quedamos a las puertas, la abandonamos por la Brecha Sup. de Llosás, pues se nos hizo tarde para coger el dichoso bus que te baja a Senarta, y yo personalmente no estaba al 100%, había pasado muy mala noche ese día y algo dentro de mi, me decía que no iba a ser nuestro día, lo acepté; baje la cabeza y simplemente lo asumí, la Montaña esta vez me había ganado la batalla, pero sabía que pronto tendría una nueva oportunidad!!!<br />
Link de acceso: <a href="http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/cresta-de-llosas-ad.html">http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/cresta-de-llosas-ad.html</a><br />
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Este fin de semana lo conseguimos!!! La grata e inmejorable compañía de nuestro amigo Maurín y la serenidad, que a todos nos transmitía la simple presencia de Chema en este grupo, sumado a la firme decisión por hacer cima ese día en el Aneto de Loren y mía, formaba un tándem brutal, nada podía salir mal, nuestro único destino era terminar lo que dejamos una día empezado, esta vez teníamos que vencer la batalla, debíamos de doblegar aquellos fantasmas que un día nos obligaron abandonar nuestra pequeña ilusión de hacer cima en el Aneto.<br />
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Salida el sábado por la tarde, desde el refugio de pescadores, subíamos a vivaquear al Ibón Inf. de Coronas, Chema y su compañero valenciano Aitor, nos estaban esperando... (<u>Por cierto dejamos olvidado en uno de los vivac, una bolsa con unos crampones y unas polainas, haber si alguien sabe del tema y nos las pudiera hacer llegar, os estaríamos eternamente agradecidos!!!)</u><br />
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Si alguien no lo sabe, desde la salida de la parada del bus de Vallibierna, sale a mano izquierda, una nueva senda que asciende hacia el Ibonet de Coronas, por la margen izquierda del río. Discurre entre pinos (la aconsejo, sobre todo por la tarde, pega la sombra y se sube más cómodo, va ganando altura poco a poco...)<br />
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Pronto volvemos a ver la brecha diagonal que cogeremos mañana para acceder a la cresta!!!, justo debajo está el ibón Inferior de Coronas, allí pasaremos hoy la noche.<br />
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Mientras subimos, contemplamos el Pico Vallibierna y el Culebras, picos unidos por un famoso paso, llamado el Paso de Caballos, porque será, jeje!!!<br />
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Ésa es la brecha que os decía, gira hacia la izquierda.<br />
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Ibonet...<br />
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Llegamos al ibón Inferior, encima vemos la cresta de Cregueña..., que recuerdos me trae este lugar!!!<br />
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Nos reunimos con Chema y Aitor en él..., he de destacar el atrevimiento de nuestro amigo Aitor, pues nunca ha hecho un tremil y hacer el primero el Aneto y por la cresta de Llosás, tiene su merito!!!<br />
Risas, y más risas..., con Maurín es una tónica muy frecuente, es un crack el tío!!!<br />
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Me presentan a Chema, lo conocía muy de oídas, nos habíamos conocido hace unos años en el Estasen, quizá no se acordaba de mi, pues yo no era muy habitual y hacía poco que hacía montaña!!!<br />
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Cenamos pronto y fuimos preparando todo para pasar la noche, al raso!!!<br />
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Haber si veo la lluvia de estrellas!!!<br />
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Toca diana a las 5 de la mañana, queríamos empezar pronto, alguno no había podido dormir mucho, hacía mucho viento, yo en particular había pasado algo de frió!!!<br />
Escondimos el material y nos dirigimos al inicio de la brecha, has se saber encontrar bien el canal de ascenso, pues hay varios y es importante inicialmente coger el que progrese mejor hacia la arista, hay alguno que es más cómodo que otro y sube menos tieso.<br />
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Al otro lado del valle, la cresta de Cregueña!!!<br />
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El aire se ha calmado y aunque hace algo de frío, parece que el día pintará bueno!!!<br />
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En poco menos de una hora hacemos el primer tresmil del día, el Argarot Sur (éste no aparece en muchos libros, pero si que dicen que reúne las características de tresmil)<br />
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Justo al lado está la Aguja Argarot 3.035m.<br />
Fácil, un pequeño destrepe y una pequeña trepadeta y...<br />
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Frente a nosotros la cresta de Llosas, al fondo el Aneto, es una de las crestas más largas del Pirineo!!!<br />
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Subiendo al Argarot...II+/III.<br />
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Llegando a la cima del Argarot.<br />
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Desde allí ya se aprecia el paso delicado de la cresta, es un pasito de IV/IV+de acceso a la Aguja Tchihatcheff 3.052m pero presenta dos posibilidades de flanqueo por ambos lados.<br />
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Con Chema y Loren hablamos de cómo hacerlo, quizá con tanta gente perdamos mucho tiempo!!!, yo el año pasado lo saqué muy bien!!, le indicaba cómo lo afronté ese día.<br />
Maurín al verlo pone mala cara, no es escalador y piensa que quizá no lo pueda superar y retrase al grupo.<br />
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Cima del Argarot!!!<br />
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Esa piedra es el lió en cuestión!!!, en la anterior reseña que hice, podéis ver más información de cómo lo afronté y de sus alternativas. Pero sino se quiere afrontar, se puede flanquear por ambos lados III+.<br />
Aquí os dejo una foto de cómo lo hicimos en su día!!!<br />
Yo lo hice por la azul!!!<br />
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Bajar del Argarot es algo delicado, el destrepe es inclinado y está en una zona bastante rota.<br />
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Collado al que llegas, ésta es la vertiente de Coronas, posibilidad de abandono!!!<br />
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Decidimos no hacer el paso de IV, somos muchos y perderemos mucho tiempo, decidimos flanquearlo por la izquierda, me adelanto y monto rapel para bajar e inspeccionar por donde ir, el flanqueo de acceso por la vertiente de Coronas hacia la cresta es algo delicado, está bastante roto y la trepada es algo expuesta.<br />
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Finalmente accedes a una zona de placa III+, algo descompuesta.<br />
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No da tregua este flanqueo, sobre todo por su exposición y por su mala roca.<br />
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Voy abriendo camino y salgo a la cresta, hemos sorteado ya la dificultad, ahora me encuentro con la famosa placa fisurada, III+, tiro para arriba sin cuerda y monto reunión para subir a los demás!!!, es una placa preciosa, pero algo expuesta, para hacerlo sin cuerda es necesario tener algo de confianza.<br />
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Luego algo de trepadeta III+ y al Tchihatcheff..., ya hemos pasado lo peor!!!<br />
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Cima del Tchihatcheff 3.052m.<br />
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En los libros se habla siempre de un rapel de 40m, pero hay una opción para dos cuerdas de 30m, hacer el rapel un poco más a la derecha, hay montado otro rapel, al final con sólo pendular un poco te claves en el collado.<br />
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Sale el sol y nos cambia la cara, cómo se agradece!!!<br />
Que bonita cresta, es mantenida pero muy asequible y tiene un poco de todo, os la recomiendo!!!<br />
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Sacamos las cuerdas y a rapelar, me tiro primero, aseguraré desde abajo a Maurín.<br />
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Hago algunas fotos...<br />
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Y baja detrás Sergio...<br />
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Apa, Sergio!!!<br />
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Jeje!!!, bonito rapel, no?<br />
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Al final sólo has de pendular hacia la derecha un poco.<br />
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Maurin está algo preocupado, le aparecen los fantasmas y el hombre de la guadaña, nos dice que está viendo la muerte por momentos, jeje!!!, pero el tío lo afronta con un par de cojones!!!, se fía de nosotros.<br />
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Continuamos, Chema y Aitor se quedan para recuperar las cuerdas, los demás nos adelantamos para encontrar el camino...<br />
Desde el collado se asciende hacia la siguiente aguja, la Franqueville, se flanquea en ascenso por la izquierda.<br />
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Una mirada atrás y vemos por donde hemos bajado, que pasada!!!<br />
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Le tiro una foto al collado de Coronas, por donde luego hemos de regresar...<br />
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Vuelven aparecer le a Sergio algún que otro fantasma, hoy se está librando una dura batalla en su interior y sé que él la va a ganar, a todo montañero le ocurre ésto en algún momento y marca un antes y un después, depende de uno mismo el que puedas o no continuar, a mi me ha ocurrido en muchas ocasiones, sobre todo escalando en vía larga, tu cuerpo puede y quiere, pero tu cabeza libra una dura batalla, quien será el ganador???<br />
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Para eso estamos los compañeros, para apoyarnos los unos a los otros, pues hemos venido a disfrutar juntos de ésto, a mi me han ayudado mucho y estoy muy agradecido por ello, ello me ha permitido progresar y llegar hasta donde he llegado.<br />
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Yo creo que poco a poco lo voy superando, pues ya me atrevo hasta sonreír por estos parajes, pues la vida es un reto continuo y no quiero dejar de saborearlo!<br />
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Loren, otra vez por estos lares!!!<br />
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Grande!!!!, si señor...<br />
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Aguja Franqueville 3.065m.<br />
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La bajada de la aguja continua con una seria de destrepes, alguno delicado, luego continua con una serie larga de pasos atléticos hasta el collado Sup. de Llosas, III+, se hace muy bien, buscar siempre los pasos y seguir los mojones, aveces flanqueas alguna piedra, casi siempre por el lado de Llosás.<br />
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Que guapa la cresta, y que sol!!!<br />
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Este tramo es divertido y muy entretenido.<br />
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Que lejos queda ya el inicio de la cresta!!!<br />
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Pico Maldito.<br />
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Llegamos al Collado Sup. de Llosás, aquí abandonamos con Loren el año pasado!!!<br />
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Ya nos queda menos...<br />
Un par de agujas y el Aneto.<br />
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Segundo rapel, más corto.<br />
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Desde el collado, de bordea un poco, por el lado de Llosás a buscar la nueva entrada a la cresta hacia la siguiente aguja, la Escudier, primer tramo delicado y algo roto, se accede con un flanqueo por la izquierda.<br />
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Chema buscando el paso hacia Escudier, por el lado de Coronas.<br />
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Brecha rota!!!<br />
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Trepadas continuas de III ya después por buena roca.<br />
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Otro flanqueo por el lado de Coronas..., a volver a coger la cresta hacia Escudier.<br />
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A nuestra izquierda el Collado de Coronas, ya huelo el Aneto...<br />
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Ese es el Aneto...<br />
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Y el Paso de Mahoma...<br />
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Cima aguja Escudier...3.315m.<br />
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Ya queda menos, la cosa se suaviza.<br />
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Loren que ya casi lo tenemos!!!<br />
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Joder lo que llevamos recorrido.<br />
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Salida del Corredor Estasen...<br />
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Y ése de atrás es la aguja de Daviu 3.350m.<br />
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Ya estamos cerca...<br />
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El Aneto, nuestro premio...<br />
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Vamos Aitor que ya lo tienes...<br />
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Detrás mio la aguja de Daviu, pasas por ella y no te das cuenta, jeje!!!<br />
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Llegamos a la cima pero antes de disfrutarla, nos vamos hacer la Espalda del Aneto, otro tresmil a tiro!!!<br />
ése de allá!!!<br />
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Parece que esta cerca pero tiene tramada , jeje...<br />
Maurin se baja con unos de Murcia que conocimos ayer, quiere digerir lo vivido hoy, jeje!!!<br />
Nosotros haremos éste y bajando haremos también el Punta Oliveras que lo tenemos a tiro y yo no lo hecho!!!<br />
Foto del Aneto desde el Pico Espalda del Aneto.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m-CbxepUcbQ/Ugppeoa-oeI/AAAAAAAAJUY/ppSI4Q0XrlI/s1600/IMG_2136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m-CbxepUcbQ/Ugppeoa-oeI/AAAAAAAAJUY/ppSI4Q0XrlI/s640/IMG_2136.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Y van ocho!!! Espalda del Aneto 3.350m.<br />
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Detrás la cresta Salenque-Tempestades, para el año que viene, jeje!!!<br />
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Y de vuelta al Aneto, ahora si!!!!Aneto 3.404m, mi cuarta ascensión...<br />
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Loren, esta vez lo hemos conseguido, enhorabuena!!!<br />
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Que recuerdos...<br />
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Para abajo, a por el paso de Mahoma.., es cortito pero delicado, y lo he visto bastante lavado la roca!!!<br />
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La ante cima del Aneto...<br />
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Ahora de bajada, a por el Punta Oliveras-Arenas 3.298m.<br />
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Noveno del día...<br />
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Y esta es la cresta de Llosas que hemos realizado, bonita no?.... 5,5h nos ha costado, sólo la cresta.<br />
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Bajamos hacia Coronas...<br />
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El Glaciar del Aneto.<br />
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Descenso por el Collado de Coronas.<br />
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A nuestra izquierda el Corredor Estasen.<br />
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Todavía se podría subir por el!!!<br />
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Ésa es nuestra cresta!!!<br />
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Hasta pronto Aneto..., coloso de nuestro Pirineo.<br />
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Y al fin al bus, esta vez si, reto superado amigos..., dura jornada de aprox. 12 horas de actividad, con 9 tresmiles realizados!!!<br />
Y tres kilos menos en el cuerpo, jeje!!!<br />
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<b>Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!</b></div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-80980356339705464092013-08-06T23:51:00.000+02:002013-08-12T10:23:22.025+02:00Cresta Tussé de Remuñé-Maupas+Boum.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Hola otra vez amigos, esta vez os llevaré a conocer una nueva y apasionante ruta iniciada desde tierras francesas. Será una aventura nueva la que me apetece contaros, con todo tipo de detalle, por si alguno de vosotros quiere hacerla y pueda ver qué se va a encontrar en ella, jeje!!! Quiero destacar lo interesante de la actividad. Es una actividad que se realiza entre valles, circular, realizada en dos etapas...Podemos destacar lo espectacular y disfrutona que fue, sobre todo el tramo de cresta de la Tussé de Remuñé al Maupás, es muy recomendable, buena roca y asequible para cualquier alpinista intrépido.</div>
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Es una actividad de dos jornadas, con pernocta en el refugio francés de Maupás a 2.430m. Se asciende por el Valle de Gorgutes en dirección al Puerto Biello 2.632m cruzando por él a Francia. Al día siguiente se parte del refugio hacia el espectacular Circo de los Crabioules, en dirección al collado que da acceso al pico Tussé de Remuñé, y de allí a crestear, jeje!!!, una espectacular y aérea cresta os espera. Se puede hacer en hora y media, pero lo normal es hacerla en dos, se pasa por el Pico Rabada, el Pico Navarro y finalmente accedes al Maupás. De allí, bajamos por la normal francesa hasta un collado que da acceso al glaciar y atravesamos éste hasta los pies del Boum, flanqueándolo por detrás y ascendiéndolo finalmente por su arista norte. Del Boum desciendes hacia España, por la normal española, hacia el Valle de Remuñé y de allí al coche!!!, que os parece la circular????, pues éso es lo que hicimos...</div>
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Buena compañía, buen tiempo,...sólo falta decisión y ganas de sufrir un poco, jeje...</div>
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Paso a relataros nuestra gran historia, espero que disfrutéis con ella cómo mis compañeros y yo lo hicimos. No se si podré haceros sentir con palabras lo que vivimos, pero si que intentaré transmitiros con imágenes las sensaciones que en ella tuvimos.</div>
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Hay muchas reseñas, en Internet y en los libros, donde te explican con mucho detalle y mejor que yo, por donde ir o cómo llegar a los sitios pero de éso creo que hay mucho ya escrito. Mi intención es la de intentar transmitiros la experiencia, tal y cómo lo vivimos, cómo si estuvierais allí con nosotros o que al menos pueda haber alguien que así lo sienta o así le llegue!!!, con éso me sentiré gratificado.</div>
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Comenzamos andar, era martes, serian ya casi las seis de la tarde. Al final de la carretera, que sube a los llanos del Hospital, da comienzo nuestro itinerario, a través del valle de Gorgutes, en dirección al Puerto de Biello 2.632m.</div>
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Valle Benasque.<br />
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Pronto empezaron aparecer, pequeñas formaciones de nubes muy cerca del paso a Francia al cual nos dirigíamos. En esta época y en esta zona, estas formaciones de nubes son muy típicas. La cosa parecía no pintar del todo bien. Pero nosotros aun así seguimos avanzando, no podíamos perder mucho tiempo pues el refugio estaba lejos y nunca habíamos estado en él antes.<br />
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Que bonito está en glaciar de la Maladetas...<br />
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Mala pinta sacaba la cosa hacia donde nos dirigíamos y todavía nos quedaba mucho por recorrer, habíamos avisado al refugio que llegaríamos tarde...<br />
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Que bonito se ve el pico del Alba y su cresta!!!<br />
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Llegamos al Ibón de Gorgutes, hacia la derecha se va al Puerto de la Glera, en teoría si te desvías hacia la izquierda un poco antes de llegar al ibón vas directo al Puerto Biello (cómo se indica en el mapa), nosotros no lo hicimos así, llegamos al de la Glera y retomamos hacia la izquierda en busca del Puerto Biello a través de neveros, pasando a Francia erróneamente por el collado que da acceso al pico Bonneco de 2.754m (pegado al Sacroix) por su flanco izquierdo. Es otra alternativa de itinerario, por el cual se accede así también al lago Selinda.<br />
Os dejo reseña de Internet para llegar directos al Puerto Biello.<br />
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Que Chusé, cómo lo ves, llegaremos a tiempo para la cena, jeje???<br />
Yo creo que no...<br />
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Justo en el puerto de la Glera 2.364m.<br />
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Ese de la izquierda de la foto es el paso del Puerto Biello que deberíamos haber tomado, fue nuestra idea inicial, nos confundió la falta de mojones que nos indicara el paso!!!<br />
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Nosotros giramos a la derecha, directos hacia otro collado.<br />
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Subida por nuestro collado, dura y al final algo delicada!!!<br />
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Salida a la parte francesa, espectacular atardecer!!!<br />
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Durillo acceso al collado cómo os decía!!!<br />
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Yo analizando la zona, buscando un corredor de bajada para bajar hacia el lago y retomar el camino correcto.<br />
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Chuse en la cima del Bonneco, justo detrás se ve el Sacroix.<br />
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Abajo el Laç Selinda, tenemos que bajar hasta él.<br />
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Buscamos desde el collado el mejor paso para descender...y encontramos éste.<br />
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Ésa será la ruta de mañana...<br />
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Delicado e incómodo descenso, pero creo que estuvo acertado ya que por el P.Biello había bastante nieve.<br />
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Más adelante observamos por dónde hemos bajado y por dónde deberíamos haberlo hecho..., las dos alternativas son buenas!!!<br />
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Atravesamos diferentes ibones, al adentrarnos en este majestuoso valle francés, al fondo el valle de Lis, atravesamos bonitos lugares, curiosos rincones...<br />
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Hemos de darnos prisa!!!, todavía faltaba mucho para llegar al refugio y pronto anochecería, teníamos que visualizar el itinerario, pues la luna mengua y pronto allí no se vería nada.<br />
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Paso por el Laç Choria.<br />
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Pasa el tiempo y que lejos queda ya el collado por el que hemos pasado.<br />
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Pasamos justo por encima de el Laç Veri.<br />
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En dirección al Laç Bleu.<br />
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Siguiendo, en todo momento unas marcas circulares amarillas (nº41), que nos indican el camino hacia el refugio.<br />
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Flanqueamos este abrupto barranco, admirando este bonito paisaje del pirineo francés!!!<br />
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Paso por el Laç Bleu.<br />
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Lejos ya, muy lejos del collado!!!<br />
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Nos apresuramos para llegar con algo de luz al refugio, la guarda francesa nos espera a nuestra llegada y nos da la bienvenida!!! Son las 22h, justo anochece. Le decimos que venimos de Benasque, que hemos salido sobre las seis, la guarda nos alienta, nos dice que lo hemos hecho muy rápido, sólo 4 horas??? nos dice que lo normal son hacerlo en seis, jeje!!!<br />
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Cenamos algo, tomamos una birra y al catre, que mañana será un día duro!!!<br />
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DIA 2º:<br />
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Nos levantamos a las 5.30h, el almuerzo nos lo sirven a las 6h, algo escaso pero bueno ya se sabe que cómo en España, en...lado, jeje!<br />
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A las 6.45 comenzamos andar, le preguntamos a la guarda y nos indica un poco cómo llegar al paso que da acceso al circo de Crabioules, de allí nos hemos de dirigir al collado que da acceso al pico Tusse de Remuñe, nuestro primer tresmil del día.<br />
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En invierno este refugio no está guardado pero en él hay mantas y luz.<br />
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La ruta que nos indica, es la de bordear el lago por la derecha, flanqueando una pequeña arista que conduce entre mojones bien sañalizados a la Tussé de Maupás. Tenemos que llegar a un collado donde nos encontrarnos con un hierro clavado, desde ese punto nos indica, que debemos de buscar una senda que desciende hasta el circo.<br />
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Llegamos pronto al collado, desde él os indico hacia donde nos hemos de dirigir, la Tussé de Remuñé.<br />
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Hace un día impresionante!!!<br />
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Ese es el hierro, justo delante a la izquierda, se aprecia la Tussé de Maupás y justo detrás de ella aparece el Maupás.<br />
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Foto de izquierda a derecha; el Pico Rabadá, nuestro collado, la Tussé de Remuñé, el Collado de Crabioules, los Crabioules, el Lezat con su cresta y a la derecha el Gran Quairat.<br />
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Descenso hacia el circo de Crabioules. Ésto en invierno debe de ser delicado.<br />
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Parada para colocarnos los crampones.<br />
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Ese es el collado que nos dará acceso directo a la Tussé.<br />
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La nieve está perfecta!!!<br />
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Justo ese punto es el tramo delicado de la cresta de Crabioules, es donde está la Aguja Jean Garnier.<br />
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Al fondo sobre la loma herbosa, se aprecia la estación de Superbagneres de Luchon.<br />
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Gravera que nos da acceso a la Tussé.<br />
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Aparecen dos escaladores que van a empezar la cresta de Crabioules, que recuerdos me da!!!<br />
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Es preciosa, casi tanto cómo la que vamos hacer hoy, jeje!!!<br />
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Ése es el Pico Tussé de Remuñe, primer tresmil!!!<br />
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Qué os parecen los Crabioules?<br />
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Justo al lado, El Perdiguero!!!<br />
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Y a nuestra izquierda nuestra cresta del día!!!, al fondo el Maupás.<br />
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Es una cresta muy aérea y mantenida pero con muy buena roca. Se puede hacer en hora y media, pero lo normal es hacerla en dos. Pasas por el P.Rabadá, por el Navarro y finaliza en el Maupás, luego existe la posibilidad de seguir hacia el Boum pero ese tramo el algo más delicado y técnico, nosotros vendremos otro día hacer sólo ese tramo, hacerla toda en el día, creo que es mucho sino te quedas a dormir.<br />
Luego bajaremos y rodearemos por el lado francés hasta llegar al Boun, haremos cima por la normal francesa y descenderemos de él por la normal española, hacia la Vall de Remuñé y de allí al coche.<br />
La cresta, de la Tussé hasta el Pico Rabadá es fácil y rápida, luego viene(para mi) el tramo más delicado, está formado por una serie de des trepes, con algún pasito de decisión, que te llevan a un collado muy expuesto por ambos lados. Luego se continua en ascenso, siempre por el filo de la cresta y con algún pasito delicado (pero que se puede hacer bien), hasta llegar a la cima del Navarro y de allí más de lo mismo, no pasa de III. Luego llegas a un tramo más afilado con alguna pequeña aguja fácil de atravesar, para llegar ya muy cerca de donde dicen se encuentra el tramo más delicado, pero yo lo vi fácil, eso si lo aseguramos, porque allí no se puede fallar y valientes los hay ya muchos si, pero en el cementerio!!! Pasas ese paso de unos 25m y más de lo mismo hasta la cima del Maupas. Cerca de la cima se abre más la cresta. Éste creo que es un breve resumen de lo que te vas a encontrar.<br />
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Os dejo un vídeo muy chulo de nuestro gran amigo Maskarrell, no tiene desperdicio, lo hace muy bien el tío!!! Es un vídeo de toda la actividad que vamos a realizar!!!<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrkTIUOR-FQ&feature=player_embedded">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrkTIUOR-FQ&feature=player_embedded</a><br />
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Lado español, la vall de Remuñé.<br />
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Tussé de Remuñé 3.012m.<br />
Aquí sacamos las cuerdas por si las empleamos, preparamos cintas, cordinos,...bebemos algo de líquido y a por el lío!!!<br />
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Os iré indicando los tramos que os he ido explicando antes, para que los podáis analizar más en profundidad a medida que vayamos pasando por ellos!!!<br />
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Abandonamos las Tussé.<br />
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Rápido se llega al Pico Rabadá.<br />
Rabadá y Navarro; dos grandes alpinistas y escaladores aragoneses que murieron colgados por <b><u>agotamiento</u></b>, intentando ascender por la Norte del Eiger, abrieron numerosas vías de escalada cuando nadie se atrevió hacerlo!!!<br />
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Cima del Rabadá!!!<br />
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Segundo del día, Rabadá 3.045m.<br />
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Nos dirigimos desde allí a la zona de destrepes delicados!!!, decidimos no usar cuerda, eso es de elección de cada cordada, lo decidimos así pues pensamos que bajaríamos bien, <u>es un tramo delicado!!!</u><br />
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Ése es el Navarro...<br />
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Ése es el collado que se llega des trepando.<br />
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Comienza suave la cosa, pero luego se complica un poco ,jeje!!!<br />
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Pasitos de fé...<br />
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Alguna trepadeta de III.<br />
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Zona afilada..., tendencia de toda la cresta!!!<br />
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Zona de placa III, para ascender al Navarro!!!<br />
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Cómo se disfruta, muy bonita y asequible, pero nunca se puede bajar la guardia, te cansas porque estás mucho rato en tensión, jeje!!!<br />
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Ascenso al Navarro.<br />
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Y ya estamos casi en la cima del Navarro, joder que guapo ha sido!!!<br />
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Ésa es!!!<br />
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Que pasada, que vistas, que día nos hace!!!<br />
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Siii, cima del Pico Navarro 3.043m, rápido pero intenso.<br />
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Y ése es el punto delicado que dicen todas las reseñas ya lo veo.<br />
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Descansamos un poco y a comer, se gasta mucho en estas vías, pues la tensión te obliga a gastar mucha energía y líquido del cuerpo!!!<br />
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Reanudamos la marcha, pues todavía queda mucho hasta llegar al coche. Continua un tramo plano y afilado con algunas pequeñas agujas pero que son muy disfrutonas!!!<br />
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Que bonita se ve!!!<br />
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El Maupás..., llegar a él por la cresta, tiene algo de merito!!!, para mi es uno de los grandes, por el lado español este pico impresiona!!!<br />
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Alguna trepadeta de III.<br />
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Llegamos a la zona de agujas.<br />
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Ya casi estamos en el paso clave...<br />
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Éste es señores, lo analizamos y decidimos asegurarlo..., lo haremos en doble y lo aseguro con dos anillos pasados por la roca. Os voy a mostrar una secuencia de fotos de todos nosotros.<br />
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Y aquí os dejo un pequeño vídeo de como lo pase, espero que os guste, tuvimos un pequeño problemilla con las cuerdas pero nada, jeje...<br />
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Montaje de la reunión.<br />
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Que va Chusé...<br />
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Loren que sólo quedas tu!!!<br />
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Recupera el material.<br />
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Y ya contentos, todos para arriba, jeje!!!, a por el trofeo, el Maupás!!!<br />
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Jo que bonita cresta, ya tengo casi todo este cordal, que pocos picos me quedan ya de esta zona!!!<br />
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Las dificultades parece que terminan pero aún queda algún pasito que otro.<br />
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La cresta al final se suaviza y allí la tenéis, la cima del Maupás!!!<br />
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Siiiii...<br />
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Gracias pequeño, por habernos permitido subir hasta tu cima, es todo un honor para mi y gracias por regalarnos este maravilloso día!!!<br />
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Mirar, ésta es nuestra recompensa!!!<br />
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Me olvidé el papel en casa, quería festejar esta cima con una dedicatoria a las ya 40.000 entradas del blog, gracias a todos por seguirme!!!<br />
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Descansamos y para abajo, por el lado francés. Hemos de descender hasta el collado que da acceso a la Tussé de Maupás y acceder desde allí al glaciar, atravesar lo y ascender al Boum por detrás!!!<br />
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Ése es el Boum, un pico delicado y de aspecto algo fiero!!!<br />
La roca para su escalada es delicada, rota y mal orientada, ofrece pocas fisuras de agarre.<br />
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Éste es el tramo que dejamos por hacer, será para otro día!!!<br />
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Bonito tramo parece!!!, desde la cima del Boum ya os lo volveré a enseñar, jeje!!!<br />
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Dura subida hacia el Boum, que calor...<br />
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Se asciende por este canchal y has de dirigirte a la arista derecha de la foto en su tramo final (II+/III, según por donde te metas), delicado y muy expuesto...<br />
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Ésa es la cima!!!<br />
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Duro a estas horas del día!!!<br />
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Éste es el tramo de cresta que nos hemos dejado, guapo!!!, para otro día.<br />
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Quinto del día, Boum 3.006m.<br />
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Tiene cómo dos cimas...<br />
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Y tiene muy buenas vistas!!!<br />
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Loren esa cresta para otro día!!!<br />
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Se ve bonita!!!<br />
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Ahora a bajar de aquí, éso sera otro cantar!!!, delicados destrepes.<br />
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Nunca encontramos la ruta normal de bajada, siempre nos tenemos que meter por los sitios que no son, suerte que al final salimos, este pico....!!!, otro día que venga me informare bien de la bajada, jeje!!!<br />
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Toca tirar de cuerda en el tramo final!!!<br />
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Y llegamos a la rima-ya, la salida delicada, la aseguramos con otro rapell.<br />
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Ahora ya, cansados por todo el día cabalgando entre rocas, buscamos el acceso directo que baja hacia el barranco de Remuñé, para coger la senda que nos conducirá al coche...<br />
Ha sido un día duro, agotador pero muy muy gratificante!!! Llegamos a las 20.30h al coche, después de más de 13h de actividad, por hoy creo que ha sido bastante amigos, ( al llegar a casa, me peso y observo que he llegado con 3,5kg menos), dura actividad!!!<br />
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Adiós Boum, hasta otra amigo!!!<br />
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Día espectacular!!!, sólo espero poder llamar lo antes posible a casa, no tenemos cobertura, bajamos más tarde de lo previsto y siempre es bueno que sepan, que ha salido todo bien!!!<br />
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Nada más amigos otro día disfrutando de la buena compañía, en uno de los mejores lugares del planeta, jeje!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!</div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-57167189306929295492013-08-01T12:47:00.004+02:002013-08-01T12:47:36.385+02:00Pico La Pez y Pico Puerto la Pez (Intento cresta de la Pez)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
El Pasado sábado, retomamos la ilusión de intentar enlazar los 9 tresmiles que encadenan la Cresta de la Pez, pero no pudo ser, el tiempo volvió a entrar en acción, nos hizo bajar, el fuerte viento y la amenaza de tormenta, hizo que desistiéramos de seguir. Dura y difícil fue la decisión, pues llegar hasta aquí es duro, sólo para empezar a crestear te lleva ya unas cinco horas de duro ascenso, jeje...<br />
Mª Jesús, Carmen, Chusé, Loren y Yo, formábamos el grupo, unos durmieron en el refu de Tabernés, desde donde salimos y otros nos tocó levantarnos a las 4 de la mañana y tirar con el coche hacia Tabernés, por una pista de 11 km, más arriba de Plan...<br />
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Me levanté a las 4.15, terminé de preparlo todo y a desayunar rápido, pues Lorenzo y Carmen me esperaban en Monzón para salir pitando hacia el Refugio de Tabernés.<br />
Aquí os dejo la prueba de ello, no os pongo la cara del madrugón, pues la hice y varias, pero eran muy feas...<br />
A las 7.15h, llegada al refu, nos juntamos y pá riba!!!<br />
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Torrentes por doquier...<br />
Hay que seguir un PR señalizado que te lleva al Puerto de La Pez por el que se cruza a Francia, seguir unas marcas amarillas y blancas.<br />
Referencia de la foto, pasar el puente y seguir la senda hacia la izquierda.<br />
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Nos adentramos en el valle, precioso, nunca había estado..., dejamos atrás la ruta hacia el Puerto de la Madera, que gira hacia la izquierda, y te conduce hacia los Culfredas, bonitos picos ( son tres cimas) que me gustaría hacer, luego os los enseñaré.<br />
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Comienza a levantarse el aire, ésto no marca buenos presagios...<br />
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Una mirada hacia atrás....<br />
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Pronto nos topamos de frente con el puerto de la Pez, hay todavía mucha nieve y yo había decidido dejar los crampones y piolet por aligerar, ya que sería un día largo, quizá tomé una mala decisión pero fue mi decisión y apechugue con ella, con mucho cuidado y colocándome bien por los neveros en todo momento, me fue bien sin ellos, tuve suerte.<br />
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Bonito corredor se forma sobre la margen derecha del valle, de haber tenido el material podríamos haber ido por allí, remonta hasta la ladera que lleva a los picos sin pasar por el puerto..., la nieve estaba perfecta.<br />
Os saco varias fotos.<br />
Luego a la bajada me lo fui a mirar, os enseñaré más.<br />
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Tomo la directa, decido afrontar el nevero ganando altura y cogiéndolo en linea recta.<br />
Allí están los demás.<br />
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Cuanta nieve queda.<br />
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Y nada por el lado francés, lo que es la orientación!!!<br />
Bonito valle.<br />
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Cómo pega el viento aquí arriba, cada vez más..., no se que será!!!<br />
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Nos dirigimos al comienzo de la cresta, justo a esas dos "cimitas" que se ven a la derecha de la foto, Pico la Pez y Pico Puerto de la Pez. Todavía nos queda mucho y el tiempo se pone nublado.<br />
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Desde el puerto se puede tomar la ruta de la cresta o flanquear ésta por abajo y continuar por el barranco hacia la cima. Nosotros por la cresta.<br />
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Fácil, pero con algún flanqueo delicado y expuesto.<br />
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Pronto se llega a la bajada hacia Francia, hay situada una sirga pasamanos, aquí dejamos ya el PR.<br />
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Un vistazo atrás y ya se ven, tapados por la nube, los Culfredas.<br />
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No sé que será, ésto pinta mal!!! y lo que nos queda!!!<br />
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Allí nos dirigimos.<br />
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Parte del cordal de subida.<br />
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Se despejan los Clufredas..., que picos más chulos!!!<br />
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Termina la cresta y comienza el pedregal, aquí confluyen los itinerarios de ascenso al pico.<br />
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Ya queda poco, se ve alguien en la cima.<br />
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Dura subida desde el puerto, cómo para repetir, jeje...<br />
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Y el puerto no se ve, queda bastante más abajo...<br />
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Llegamos primero al Pico Puerto de la Pez 3.18m, 5 horas de dura subida con viento y frió, algunos empezamos a pensar en la posible retirada!!!, es dura la decisión después de llegar aquí, os lo aseguro!!!<br />
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Muy cerca está el Pico la pez 3.024m.<br />
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Pico Puerto la Pez.<br />
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Me dirijo rápido hacia el Pico la Pez, el tiempo empeora por momentos y no quiero coger frió, pues la subida nos ha mojado la ropa de sudor.<br />
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Pico La Pez, muy rápido.<br />
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Ése tendría que ser el final de nuestro cordal, el Gran Bachimala, bueno... y luego de bajada, haríamos la Punta Sabre, pero no se ve.<br />
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Son las 12h, parada para comer algo, quedan todavía unas 4h de cresta y casi tres de bajada, yendo rápido!!!<br />
Decidimos abandonar y dejarlo para otro día, yo el primero, las crestas son para disfrutarlas, aveces la montaña es así de curiosa y gasta grandes putaditas!!!, otro día nos tocará volver a subir!!!<br />
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El viento sube fuerte ya que el valle hace de embudo y nos pega de lo lindo a la bajada.<br />
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Ahora se ven los Culfredas!!!<br />
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Que bonitos!!!<br />
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Bajada hacia el Puerto.<br />
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Volveremos!!!<br />
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A la bajada me adelanto y voy a mirar el corredor, bonito y fácil, quizá max. 60º por el ramal final de la derecha quizá un poco más!!!<br />
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Cómo baja el Cinqueta en su nacimiento!!!<br />
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Y ésto acaba señores, dura pero acertada decisión, comienza a llover!!!, luego en Plan, cae la de Dios!!!<br />
Menos mal que hemos decidido bajar!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte!!!</div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-37129159619559112582013-07-24T19:21:00.000+02:002013-07-24T19:22:05.145+02:00Diente y Muela de Alba, Mir, Punta Delmás y Pico Sayó (por los tubos de Paderna).<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Este finde amenazaban tormenta, por eso se tubo que buscar un plan B, pues nuestra idea inicial era la de emprender la Cresta de la Pez, es muy larga y en ella se enlazan en una jornada, 10 tresmiles!!!. Nuestro plan B era el de hacer el Diente y la Muela del Alba, pues son rápidos y directos y son picos que no mucha gente suele hacer, luego allí, según el día se valoraría la posibilidad de intentar enlazar algún que otro tresmil más, jeje...<br />
El grupo lo formábamos; mi compañero de cordada Loren, su mujer Mª Jesús, Carmen, Santiago Sola, Chusé y Yo,...bonito grupo!!!<br />
El sábado llegábamos al parking de los Llanos, allí pasaríamos la noche, esta vez me acompañó Pilar, la que ya es mi mujer, jeje, que raro se me hace la cosa!!!, ella sólo venia de turismo, nos esperaría a nuestro regreso, mientras disfrutaría de los maravillosos rincones que nos presta este valle y su entorno.<br />
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A las 5h diana, a desmontar todo y pá riba!!!</div>
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Pronto cogemos el desvío que conduce, entre canales, al collado que da acceso al Pico de Paderna, se suele hacer mucho en invernal, pero es algo delicado según el estado de la nieve..., creo que son tres canales.<br />
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Amanece grandioso el día, creo que será un día de esos para no olvidar...,cuanto más vengo a la Vall de Benás, más me gusta, sencillamente, me encanta!!!<br />
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Emerge tras nuestro el Mall Piltrat.<br />
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Seguimos nuestra ruta por los canales...<br />
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Pronto divisamos parte de nuestro objetivo del día, emergen Las Maladetas!!!<br />
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Bonita foto...<br />
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Esa "puntica"que se asoma es nuestro primer objetivo, el Diente de Alba.<br />
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Vamos Loren que hoy si que la liamos, claro si el tiempo nos deja!!!<br />
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Detrás el Salvaguardia y La Mina.<br />
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Ascendiendo en dirección al Alba, pasamos por debajo de la Tuca Blanca de Paderna.<br />
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Que día más pincho nos hace!!!, a disfrutar que para eso estamos aquí y para eso hemos venido, por la tarde será otra cosa, jeje!!!<br />
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Un saludo Blogueros!!!<br />
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Rebasamos ya la altura del Pico de Paderna y lo dejamos atrás...<br />
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Bonita foto le saco a Chusé..., justo detrás la Punta Delmás y a su izquierda creo que es el Sayó.<br />
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Ése es nuestro primer objetivo del día!!!, ya lo tenemos cerca, queríamos ascender a él por corredor pero no hay suficiente nieve y ésta no llega al collado que une el Diente con la Muela.<br />
Bonita foto de recuerdo.<br />
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Que poco nos queda, tengo ganas de hacerme con estos picos!!!<br />
Que bonito es este sitio, esta cordada rocosa que va desde el Alba al Aneto es un sitio genial, desde aquí me propongo un reto de futuro, algún día no muy lejano, intentare hacer todo el cordal y llegar al Aneto, eso si, necesitaré vivaquear en altura...<br />
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Detrás La Tuca Blanca y la Tuqueta.<br />
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Nos ponemos los crampones para aprovechar los neveros que conducen a los pies del Diente para facilitar así el ascenso.<br />
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Duras palas con este calor...<br />
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Aquí os muestro un poco el lugar y lo que hicimos.<br />
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Mientras vamos subiendo, a nuestra izquierda, vamos divisando los que ya serán nuestros siguientes destinos, pues el día de momento pinta bueno y creo que podremos hacer algún que otro tresmil más...<br />
Vamos analizando el itinerario, viendo por donde los haremos mejor y más rápidos.<br />
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Subida hacia el collado entre la Muela y el diente, fácil.<br />
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Que ganas me entran de subir allí arriba, no me voy sin hacer al menos esos dos más!!!, jeje...<br />
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Llegamos al collado y a crestear...<br />
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Fácil II.<br />
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Primero del día, el Diente!!! siiii, al fin!!!<br />
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Foto de grupo...<br />
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Justo al lado el Alba, que grandes recuerdos me trae, he ido ya dos veces; una en invernal y la otra llegué a él por la cresta de los Quince, fue uno de los mejores día de montaña que he tenido..., gracias a Oscar Sanmartín y a su padre Toño que me llevaron, nunca olvidaré ese día!!!<br />
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Ahora a por la Muela, cresteamos hacia la cima pero nos encontramos una gran piedra que da acceso a la cima, por no perder tiempo evitamos complicaciones, sorteamos la dificultad flanqueándolo por la derecha, por el flanco sur hacia la cima.<br />
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Esa es la cima y esa gran piedra el problema, se puede sortear fácil por el flanco derecho, hay que descender un poco o coger el flanco más abajo.<br />
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Me sigue el grupo.<br />
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Ya lo tengo, es mio...<br />
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Muela del Alba!!!<br />
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Desde esa piedra, en forma de jamón, se pueden hacer fotos muy chulas, jeje...<br />
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Llega el resto del grupo...<br />
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Rápido descendemos fácil de la Muela hacia el Collado de Alba, abandonamos las mochilas para ir más rápidos, no sabemos cuanto aguantará el tiempo, daban tormentas y ya son las 13h, queremos hacer algún que otro tresmil más...<br />
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El ascenso, siguiendo la cresta hacia el Mir es fácil y la roca es buena, se puede hacer por varios sitios, aquí os muestro cómo!!!<br />
La roja sale desde una terraza y tira por una gruesa fisura; III+/quizá IV, asegurándolo!!!, no hice fotos...<br />
La azul por la que subió el grueso del grupo II+.<br />
La naranja un canal fácil II y muy directo.<br />
Y la verde por lo fácil II, es por la que luego continuamos nuestro descenso.<br />
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La mayoría elegimos probar por la cresta y ver que pasaba, chulo!!!<br />
Asciendes por canales que no pasan de II+.<br />
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Sigo unos mojones que me llevan a una terraza, desde la que se toman bonitas fotos del tramo de cresta que va hacia el Delmás, por la que se puede meter uno y progresar por una gruesa fisura de III+/IV, pero no me complico ahora con tanta gente de ir por allí, hubiera sido bonito!!!, quizá otro día, por lo que sigo por la derecha de la cresta a través de canales.<br />
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Santi nos toma la directa, ha elegido un canal más directo, nos dice que es muy asequible, nosotros hemos preferido algo más de roca ,jeje...por lo que se hace primero con el Delmás el jodio...<br />
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Mientras desde la terraza le vamos fotografiando.<br />
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Y disfrutando del momento!!!<br />
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Ésa el la Punta Delmás, bonito tramo de cresta, algo delicado y aéreo pero asequible, II+.<br />
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Detrás a nuestra derecha el Pico Le Bondidier, ése al final lo dejamos, la tormenta se nos echaba encima, lástima me hubiera encantado llegar a él, lo propuse pero no cuajo la cosa..., ya volveré, jeje...<br />
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Mientras Santi a lo suyo...y no quería subir el tío!!!<br />
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Nosotros detrás..., bonito tramo, algo aéreo. Las vistas del Glaciar y del Cresterio de las Maladetas increíble!!!, os muestro varias fotos del tramo que no tienen desperdicio.<br />
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Cima del Delmás!!!, otro más!!!<br />
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Sencillamente maravilloso estar allí en esos momentos, no lo cambiaría en esos momentos por nada!!!<br />
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Bonito rincón para meditar...<br />
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Y yo aquí viendo el panorama y disfrutando del lugar mientras reunimos al grupo...<br />
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Esta foto para ellos que se lo merecen, por lo buena gente que son, la verdad es que me han abierto los brazos desde el primer momento y yo esas pequeñas cosas las valoro un montón!!!, gracias amigos por acoger a este pequeño huérfano entre vosotros!!!<br />
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Ahora a por el Mir...<br />
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Casi al llegar a la cima, nos encontramos con ésto..., yo no me fío, la cuerda no le he puesto yo y parece algo deteriorada si se rompe no veas hasta donde caes!!!, el único que está tan loco para hacerlo es Chuse, me quito el sombrero ante él. Desciendo flanqueando la piedra y me meto en un lió de cojones!!!, sin posibilidad de retorno, un flanqueo muy delicado, les digo a los demás que no sigan que retrocedan y lo flanqueen desde más atrás, yo ya no puedo regresar he de continuar. En el flanqueo, sufro de lo lindo podía haberme ocurrido algo, pero me fue bien, baje con algo de nervios pero bien, alguna gota de sudor rapeló por mi frente.<br />
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Éste fue parte del destrepe, no se aprecia muy bien su dificultad..., tenía algún que otro techito.<br />
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Flanqueo la roca y al llegar a la cima me encuentro al intrépido de Chuse que ha subido por la cuerda, sin palabras!!!<br />
Pico Mir...<br />
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A Chuse, le gusta bendecir las cimas conseguidas con vino, curioso tío éste!!!<br />
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Pronto aparecen nubarrones justo encima nuestro, empiezan ha caer las primeras gotas, se oyen los primeros truenos, unos quieren bajar y otros queremos hacer el Sayó que lo tenemos a tiro..., al final triunfa la valentía o quizá una mezcla de imprudencia y de osadía, jeje...<br />
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A por el Sayó...<br />
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Descenso rápido del Mir..., fácil.<br />
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Y ascenso rápido al Sayo, II/II+.<br />
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Joder que día éste!!!<br />
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Abandonamos el Mir, se ve bonito...<br />
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Y rápido llegamos al Sayó, hay que bajar rápido la tormenta ya ha llegado...<br />
5 en el día, no está mal...<br />
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Frente a nosotros también nos dejamos el Cordier, lástima se podría haber hecho, nos dejamos dos que quería hacer; Le Bondidier y el Cordier...,otro día volveré...<br />
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Día duro, Loren en que estás pensando???<br />
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Descenso fácil desde el collado, ahora nos toca dirigirnos hacia el Collado del Alba.<br />
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Ése es, allí hemos dejado las mochilas, salvo Chuse, que tío!!!<br />
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Como algo rápido y bebo lo que me queda de líquido y en fuego a descender, empieza a llover aquí arriba.<br />
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Aprovechamos todos los neveros posibles para bajar lo más rápido posible.<br />
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Que grande, este día!!!<br />
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Mi amigo Loren está cansado, cómo todos los demás, descansamos un poco para reunir al grupo, que ha parado a comer.<br />
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La bajada por los Tubos de Paderna, para no contar!!!, llueve a cántaros y el descenso es rápido y delicado, nos mojamos de lo lindo...<br />
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La prueba de ello, todo chupido y muy cansado, bajar tan rápido con la roca mojada y por ese itinerario te hace gastar mucha energía y más si es al final de una dura jornada, mi cara al llegar al coche lo dice todo.<br />
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Pero pronto se me pasa, pues llegar acompañado de Loren y verlo a mi lado con la misma cara de sufrimiento me cambia rápido la cara, ambos reímos, nos abrazamos,... cómo tantas veces lo hemos hecho al bajar de la Montaña, simplemente una foto juntos, nos hace olvidar el mal rato pasado...<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada, nos vemos por el Monte.</div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-48214656882219347342013-07-09T17:41:00.003+02:002013-07-11T16:13:01.399+02:00Punta Fulsa o Fuesa 2.865m por Ordiceto (corredor central de la pared norte).<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Este domingo todo indicaba, que iba a ser uno de esos días en los que la Montaña nos muestra sus mejores galas, un día en los que nos regala sus mejores vistas, sus rincones,... de una manera especial. Sol, buena temperatura,...condiciones idóneas para salir y disfrutar de ella. Un día en que todo montañero debiera de no perderse.<br />
Salí con mi gran compañero de cordada Lorenzo Sierra hacia Bielsa, concreta mente hacia la pista que sube desde Parzan, siguiendo el GR11, hacia la central de Urdiceto (necesario todo terreno-11 km de pista). Normalmente has de abandonar el coche antes de llegar a la central, pues suele haber algún que otro nevero o piedra que no te permite continuar. Salíamos de Monzon sobre las 6 de la mañana y empezábamos a caminar a las 9.40h. Nuestra idea inicial era la de alcanzar el pico a través del collado del Cao 2.664m, desde allí crestear hasta la cima. Barajábamos también la posibilidad de llegar a él a través de algún que otro corredor de su pared norte, pues sabíamos que todavía queda bastante nieve, dependería todo de su estado.<br />
Al llegar ya desde el coche se apreciaban los corredores, se veía claro su estado, decidimos llevarmos algo de material, pues al verlos, la decisión pronto estaba tomada, jeje... eso si, seguramente habría que sortear algún que otro resalte rocoso y por ello tendríamos que asegurar los pasos. Cogimos algún que otro friend, un juego de fisureros, unas cintas largas, clavos y algún que otro cordino para abandonar (por si las cosas salieran mal y tuviéramos que descender!!!)...deje la estaca que me traje para emplearla en otra ocasión, con los clavos bastaría!!!<br />
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Foto desde el coche al llegar, el pico es el del fondo, a la izquierda detrás de todo...<br />
Se aprecian tres corredores de acceso a la cresta, ascendimos por el central y descendimos por el de la izquierda, el mas próximo al collado del Cao.<br />
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Pista GR11, hacia el puerto de Ordiceto.<br />
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8.40 de la mañana, comienza nuestra aventura..., es un pico que no se asciende mucho pues le hace mucha sombra su coloso y vecino Suelza, que ya he ascendido en dos ocasiones...<br />
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Va Loren y me dice que se ha dejado los calcetines en casa!!!, es para matarlo!!!, pues nada "páriba" que se va sin ellos el jodio!!!, es una cabra montesa el puñetero...<br />
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Ésto es a lo que me refería con un día idílico en montaña!!!, sobran las palabras. Al fondo el Posets.<br />
Puerto de Ordiceto.<br />
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Ahora dejamos el GR11 y nos dirigimos hacia el Refugio de nueva construcción...<br />
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Ése es nuestro objetivo del día!!!<br />
Un poco de publicidad de Quechua!!!<br />
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Justo en medio una brecha, ese es el collado del Cao.<br />
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Llegamos al Ibón de Ordiceto, todavía est helado!!!<br />
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Una mirada hacia tras!!!<br />
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Esta foto de recuerdo de este día, día en el que conquistamos el Fulsa..., pues es un pico que me gustaría hacer en pleno invierno, pero se ha de dejar. Por detrás hay unas palas perfectas por las que subir!!!, algún día lo haré, este año ha estado delicada la cosa.<br />
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A medida que nos vamos acercando intentamos decidir que corredor emprender; el de la izquierda es facilote y el central seguro que tiene algún que otro resalte,...hay otro más a la derecha, está un poco encajonado y no lo vimos, lástima podríamos haberlo hecho por allí, hubiera sido más largo. Pero bueno creo que el que elegimos era el más delicado en esta época y creo que acertamos!!!<br />
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¿qué tal Loren sin calcetines?....<br />
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Estos son, el de la izquierda fue por el que descendimos y el de la derecha por el que subimos, se puede apreciar en él el tramo de roca que sorteamos casi ya a la salida del mismo...., más a la derecha se aprecia una fisura, pues allí nace otro corredor, ese no lo vimos.<br />
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A medida que nos acercábamos a la entrada del corredor , a nuestra izquierda emergía precioso el Suelza.<br />
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Como aprieta el calor!!!<br />
Se hace algo durilla la cuesta, que ganas tengo de entrar en él y coger algo de sombra...<br />
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Se observa un gran resalte rocoso, haber cómo lo sorteamos, jeje!!!<br />
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Loren sufriendo a la entrada!!!, duro!!!<br />
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La nieve perfecta, en julio haciendo corredores!!!<br />
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Max. inclinación sobre 55-60º al final, en un resalte helado!!!<br />
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Muy bonito!!!<br />
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Tramo final helado!!!<br />
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Llegamos rápido al lío!!!, observo por donde afrontarlo, es una roca muy descompuesta, rojiza y orientada toda en alhajas hacia bajo, no se aprecia bien pero casi no ofrecía posibilidad de colocar nada para asegurarlo, salvo que no colocaras un clavo.<br />
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Es un resalte húmedo, descompuesto, la roca hace tripa y te tira hacia fuera, monto reunion con un puente de roca y un friend, perfecto, a prueba de bomba!!!<br />
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La salida puede hacerme pendular, la aseguro con un fisurero muy bien empotrado, con ello elimino el factor uno ante una posible caida, pues la roca mojada y tan rota no me da seguridad en los pasos y además llevamos los crampones puestos!!!<br />
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Corto pero duro paso, salgo y trato de buscar rápido donde poder asegurar a Loren.<br />
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Está todo muy roto, pero encuentro una gran piedra para la reunión.<br />
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Loren continua hacia la salida que da acceso a la arista.<br />
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Salida del resalte desde la arista!!!<br />
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Una vez en la cresta, recogemos allí todo el material y con mucho cuidado continuamos hacia la cima, pues la roca está muy rota en toda esta parte.<br />
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Os muestro otra vez la salida del corredor!!!, delicado.<br />
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Y rápido a la cima!!!<br />
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Esta foto para Loren, precioso recuerdo del Fulsa, justo detrás el Suelza!!!<br />
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Abajo el lago y refugio de Ordiceto!!!<br />
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Si.................otro pequeño Reto superado!!!, buen comienzo de temporada!!!, ya tenia ganas de ésto, pues hacia tiempo que no salia a disfrutar de un día de montaña, recientemente he estado algo liadillo, pues el 1 de Junio me casé y luego me fui a Tailandia unos días Jeje..., se lo dedico a la que es ya mi mujer, Pilar!!!<br />
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Foto de cima, grande Loren ...y sin calcetines!!!<br />
Eres un crack y un gran compañero de cordada, jeje, no como nuestro amigo Toño Sanmartín que nos abandona por la escalada!!!<br />
Un saludo Toño desde el Fulsa, de tus <b><u>antiguos</u></b> compañeros de cordada, haber cuando retomas el asunto, nos tienes un poco abandonados últimamente!!!<br />
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La Norte del Perdido se ve fenomenal!!!<br />
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Comemos algo en la cima disfrutando del día que nos hace!!!, y para abajo, la bajada delicada, toda la cresta esta muy rota, parece hojaldre!!!<br />
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Volvemos a pasar por el corredor de salida...<br />
Seguimos, nuestra idea es llegar al collado del Cao.<br />
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Pero decidimos bajar por este corredor, se ve bien.<br />
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Para abajo..., no nos hace falta los crampones!!!<br />
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Bonito aventura, si señor!!!<br />
Así se hacen las cosas, día redondo!!!<br />
Gracias Fulsa, algunos nos acordamos de ti, hasta otra amigo, nos volveremos a ver en otra ocasión!!!<br />
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Ese es nuestro corredor de subida, al que hemos bautizado como Central.<br />
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Un saludo a todos los que me siguen, os tenia un poco abandonados, lo siento!!!, jeje, pronto otra aventurilla os lo prometo.<br />
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A las 15h llegamos al coche!!!<br />
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Bueno amigos, un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-35808490748262213962013-02-19T15:54:00.000+01:002013-02-19T16:16:28.059+01:00Un día de escalada en Zurita.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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El pasado sábado había proyectado una salida del club Montisonense, a Santa Lynia (Lleida). Debido a la escasa afluencia de socios, ésta salida se trasladó finalmente a la escuela de Zurita (Llitera). Fuimos con Mario, organizador de la salida, me llevó a este magnifico lugar, una nueva escuela para mi muy cerca de la zona en la que vivimos, la cual no me defraudó nada!!!, buena roca, vías muy bonitas y de un nivel bastante asequible. Lugar aconsejado, sobre todo en invierno por su orientación sur, incluso aconsejo de ir en familia o acompañado de amigos, ya que posee muy buenas vistas del valle y de la zona...<br />
Se accede desde el pueblo de Baells, atraves de una pista (buen estado) de aprox. 3km.<br />
La roca es caliza, bastante agresiva, creo que es porque no está muy pulida todavía, ja!!!, prevalece la placa la cual presenta buenos agarres (agujeros) algo cortantes eso sí, y ocasionalmente se sucede alguna que otra fisura o diedro, también presenta algún que otro techito en el que poder disfrutar...Las vías están bien equipadas y van del IV+ al 7a+.<br />
Estuvimos escalando toda la mañana y parte de la tarde, únicamente escalamos en el sector Curiós, escalamos vías hasta el 6b+(Mario), yo hasta el 6a+!!!<br />
Os dejo unas bonitas reseñas, que he sacado de Internet del sector en el que estuvimos, el Curiós...<br />
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<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;"><strong>SECTOR CURIÓS</strong></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">1 Pati V+ 20 Pernales 2.002 diedros</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">2 Pami 6b 20 Pernales 2.002 muro</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">3 Pal lolillo 6c 20 Ignasi 2.002 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">4 Kirropa 7a+ 20 Pernales 2.002 espolón desplomado</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">5 La puncha 7a 25 Molina 2.002 muro, paso morfo</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">6 Mientras dormía 6a+ 25 Ignasi/Pernales 2.002 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">7 Ballofa 6c+? 25 Cosin/Merce 2.010 muro-espolón</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">8 Trance lucid 6b+? 25 Cosin/Merce 2.010 muro naranja</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">9 Diedre central V 20 Cosin/Merce 2.010 diedro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">10 Des trankis V- 20 Ignasi 2.002 placa</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">11 Via 1100 V+ 10 Pernales 2.002 placa</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">12 Puta vida 7b? 10 Cosin/Merce 2.010 muro liso</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">13 Pedrin esparragin 6c 18 Pernales/Alex 2.002 desplome de agujeros</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">14 La toma de força 6b+ 18 J.Castanera 2.008 desplome de agujeros</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">15 Avui no fa sol 6c 22 J.Castanera 2.008 placa técnica</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">16 Comando Zurita 6a+ 22 J.Castanera 2.008 fisura discontinua en diagonal</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">17 Puta fisura 6b+ 10 Pernales 2.002 muro semifisurado</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">18 Jarabe de tocho 6a+ 18 Ciwy 2.002 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">19 Kikimora 6a 18 Pernales 2.002 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">20 Parella de talivans V 18 J.Castanera 2.008 diedrito</span></div>
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y otras de los otros sectores de esta escuela!!!<br />
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<strong style="font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;">SECTOR COMANDO ZURITA</span></strong><br />
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<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">1 Tres rasteres 6b 25 J.Riba 2.007 muro naranja</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">2 La perra de la Laia 6a+ 22 J. Castanera 2.007 diedros</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">3 Una mica foradada 6c 25 A.Quintilla 2.007 fisura intermitente</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">4 Jabalí 7a+ 25 Cosin/Cauvet 2.001 placa lisa y techito. Si escaqueamos el techo por la izq., queda 6c+. Primer seguro alto.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">5 La fisura 6b 18 Ciwy 2.001 fisura</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">6 La guineu del Pirineu 6b 25 J.Castanera 2.007 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">7 La parenta 6b 25 J.Riba 2.007 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">8 Universal for ever 6b 25 A.Quintilla 2.007 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">9 Dios de boira 6b 25 J.Castanera 2.007 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">10 Esta aki com yo 6b 25 J.Castanera 2.007 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">11 Rayos y truenos 6a 25 J.Castanera 2.007 fisura y muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">12 Fragati rock 6b 20 J.Castanera 2.007 canalizos</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">13 La secta de Baells 6a+ 20 J.Castanera 2.007 canalizos</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">14 La virgen de Nacha 6a+15 J.Castanera 2.007 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">15 Nuria 6a 15 J. Marmolejo/Nuria 2.001 muro</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">16 Nacha pop 6a+ 15 J. Marmolejo/Nuria 2.001 muro</span><br />
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Bonito lugar donde dejamos el material!!!, bonitas vistas!!!<br />
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Primeras impresiones del sector y de las vías, abriremos primero para calentar algunas vías de fácil nivel, comienzo yo por una de V-, "Des Trankis", que es la que está a la derecha de la foto, justo al lado del diedro, luego haremos la siguiente a la derecha; vía "1100" V+,... así calentaremos un poco!!!<br />
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Una vez ya entrados en calor, Mario me lleva a una bonita vía que flanquea a izquierdas; "comando zurita" 6a+, bonita vía si señor!!!<br />
Parte inicial de flanqueo!!!<br />
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Es algo larga y con algún techito!!!<br />
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Luego voy yo, la clave está en saber situar los pies al inicio de la vía durante el flanqueo, si sabes superar éso lo demás esta muy bien!!!<br />
Bien, bien,... estoy en mi nivel y rozando ya el 6b, ja!!!haber cuando lo consigo!!!<br />
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Mario me dice que me gire para la foto!!!<br />
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Me siento bien aunque la roca es bastante abrasiva!!!<br />
Vías bonitas y de nivel mantenido!!!<br />
Mario después abre la de la izquierda; "Avui no fa sol" 6c, yo lo intento pero me va grande, ja!!!<br />
Luego nos metemos hacia la izquierda del sector, hay una vía de V+, Mario me dice que me va a gustar; "Pati" V+, después de hacerla, me atrevo a decir que para mi quizá haya sido la vía más bonita que he hecho de V+!!!, creo que es perfecta para el grado, buenos agarres y muy mantenida, si señor una <u>vía preciosa</u>!!!<br />
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Mas tarde nos metemos en la de la derecha; "Pami" 6b!!!<br />
El tramo delicado es al inicio, (placa) hay un paso delicado donde la clave es el cambio de pies y de manos, lo demás es muy asequible y precioso!!!, yo en esta secuencia fallo un poco pero al final continuo hacia arriba (top rock), no saco el paso pero queda fijado para la prox. vez, eso seguro!!!<br />
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Éste es el tramo de cambio y un poco más abajo!!!<br />
Sé que estoy muy cerca y lo haré la próxima vez, seguro!!!<br />
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Continuo y la vía es perfecta!!!<br />
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Después Mario hace la "Mientras dormía 6a+, es larga 25m!!!, me dice que la pruebe, que seguro la puedo sacar, pero a estas alturas mis yemas de los dedos están algo dañadas, hacia días que no escalaba y me había pasado factura, el próximo día la intentaré!!!, ésta nueva y el 6b son mi asignatura pendiente para el prox. día!!!<br />
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Y con ésto terminó todo amigos, espero que os haya gustado la estrada!!!<br />
Os dejo unas fotos del sector!!!<br />
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Hasta otra!!!!<br />
Un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-70774748574058813172013-01-08T19:52:00.000+01:002013-01-08T20:17:23.398+01:00Hito Oriental del Perdiguero 3.170m (Invernal)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
El jueves 3 de Enero, para estrenar el año, me fui en compañía de unos grandes amigos del Club de Binefar y de Monzón. Queríamos intentar ascender uno de los más duros y largos tresmiles de nuestro Pirineo. Nuestra intención era la de hacer la cima del Perdiguero, era justo después de que varios cientos de esquiadores tuvieran que ser evacuados de las pistas de Panticosa, debido a los fuertes vientos, que idea más pintoresca y atrevida, no???<br />
Gran grupo...Con varios de ellos hacia ya mucho tiempo que no habíamos coincidido, hacía ya tiempo que no habíamos podido disfrutar de un duro y largo día de montaña, cómo en el que en ocasiones solíamos compartir...No podía ser en otro sitio, tenia que ser en el Perdiguero!!!<br />
Me refiero a Maurín; un tío increíble, lleno de vitalidad y una gracia inigualable!!!, a Gerardo; gran compañero y una gran persona..., y a Irene; impetuosa y llena de una gran fuerza e ilusión!!!, con Loren solemos ir muy a menudo y también es de los que nunca faltan en estas aventuras y al que le tengo un gran cariño. Como veis, un grupo perfecto!!!<br />
Os puedo decir que fue uno de los tres días más duros desde que hago Montaña!!!, nos hizo un viento de perros y la ascensión se hizo muy dura, casi 7 horas tan solo para llegar a la cima Oriental!!!, desistimos de llegar a la cima principal, por el viento y por la hora que era...<br />
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A lo lejos el Perdigueret y ya asomaba la arista hacia el Perdiguero, todavía nos faltaba mucho camino!!!<br />
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Ascendimos por el itinerario alto que da acceso directo al Ibón Blanco, que une a éste con el Valle de Remuñe, a pie de Perdiguero. Sin darnos cuenta realizamos una pequeña variante inicial, ascendiendo demasiado y dejando muy abajo el valle, ello nos hizo flanquear por laderas muy cercanas a las rocas, ganando mucho desnivel en el inicio mismo de la jornada, haciendo el ascenso más duro si cave!!!<br />
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El viento azotaba fuerte del Norte, no nos dejaba avanzar con facilidad, no nos permitía intuir fácil el camino, éso creo que fue un poco lo que nos despistó!!!<br />
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De repente amainó pero solo fue por momentos, luego se hizo más fuerte, parecía que nos estaba esperando!!!<br />
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No desistimos y decidimos en todo momento continuar!!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asoma el Posets al fondo.</td></tr>
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Llegando al Ibón Blanco, al fondo a la derecha, la cresta que hice en el verano con Lorenzo, los Crabioules!!!<br />
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A la izquierda del Ibón, la pala de acceso a la arista cimera hacia el Perdiguero...larga!!!<br />
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Éste es el canal de acceso desde el ibón de Lliterola, por el que bajamos con Loren, bonitas palas que nos encontramos al bajar!!!<br />
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Comenzamos ascender hacia la arista, cada uno a su ritmo pero sin pausa!!!<br />
Se hizo muy duro. Ascendiendo el viento nos golpeaba de lo lindo, nos tiraba al suelo y las ráfagas de aire no te dejaban levantar!!!<br />
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Ya en la arista, las vistas eran increíbles pero no hubo tiempo para muchas fotos, hacia mucho frió y el viento era insoportable!!!<br />
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Decidimos abandonar la idea de llegar a la cima principal, era un poco arriesgada la cosa. Dejamos las mochilas y nos dirigimos a la Oriental, pensamos que era lo mejor, el tiempo era muy malo y ya era demasiado tarde!!!<br />
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Al fondo el Perdiguero!!!<br />
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Nos cobijamos en la misma ladera de la cornisa, evitando así el fuerte viento y poder disfrutar un poco del momento después de una dura y larga ascensión!!!<br />
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Foto de cima!!!<br />
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Aproveché para saludar y hacer una foto que tenia preparada para este final de año, agradeciéndoos a todos vuestras visitas!!!<br />
30.000 entradas en dos años de vida!!!, no es la ostia pero para mi es suficiente, no pensaba llegar ni a 5.000!!!<br />
Gracias a todos los que me siguen!!! de todo corazón!!!!<br />
Cada reto es una ilusión y cada entrada vuestra me ayuda mucho a continuar...<br />
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Felices Pascuas a todos y Feliz 2013!!!<br />
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De bajada contemplamos el bonito flanqueo matinal!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y Feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-35327983141059958592012-12-15T19:13:00.000+01:002012-12-15T19:32:34.516+01:00Los primeros Hielos!!! (un finde en Benasque)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Nos fuimos el puente de la Constitución a pasar el fin de semana a la montaña, queríamos iniciar el periodo invernal y que mejor lugar para empezar que Benasque!!!<br />
Llegamos el viernes por la noche, el tiempo no lo daban muy bueno pero aun así decidimos ir a ver que podíamos hacer. Nos vimos apurados para llegar al parking del Hospital, pues la ventisca hacia pronto acto de presencia en aquel lugar. El fuerte viento desplazaba gran parte de la nieve acumulada en las cimas, cubriéndonos aquella noche la pista de acceso, lo que nos provocó algún que otro problemilla, ja!!! al final por no poner las cadenas tuvimos que tirar de pala.<br />
Hacia frió pero no tanto como pensábamos...<br />
A la mañana siguiente el día amaneció feo. Soplaba mucho viento, la nieve iba de una lado hacia el otro, la ventisca no daba tregua; incansable, incomoda y severa...,duró todo el día. Dado el tiempo que hacia, nos conformábamos únicamente con poder llegar a las cascadas de Aiguallus y comprobar insitu su estado. Dura tarea la de aquel día, pues la posible huella que hubiera podido haber la ventisca la habría cubierto toda, teniendo así que abrirla de nuevo, dura y ardua actividad en nieve polvo hasta la rodilla, ja!!!<br />
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Mal día habíamos elegido para hacer montaña, ja!!!<br />
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Llegamos a la Besurta, nos acompañaban los hijos de Toño los cuales si que consiguieron hacer al menos un largo en hielo, no les dió tiempo para más. Ellos se colocaron delante, iban con esquíes nosotros llevavamos raquetas.<br />
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Fue horroroso con tanta nieve y con ese viento, cómo preparación y actividad está bien pero no disfrute nada, os lo puedo asegurar!!!, apenas pudimos comer en todo el día y ya no os digo beber!!!<br />
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Al llegar a la zona arbolada, seguimos unas huellas que nos desviaron un poco del camino correcto que sin quererlo, ello hizo que nos metiéramos en algún que otro fregado!!!<br />
Como éste!!!<br />
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Por momentos veíamos que quería salir el sol pero las nubes y la nieve lo cubrían!!!<br />
Cerca ya de las cascadas, donde el valle se abre, el viento azotaba con más violencia si cabía!!!<br />
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Inquietante, duro y fatal día de montaña...<br />
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Pero como siempre digo, de todo se aprende!!!<br />
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Llegamos al Forau!!!, precioso lugar.<br />
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A lo lejos ya divisábamos las cascadas!!! pero todavía quedaba mucho, cada vez había más y más nieve, desde allí, conseguir llegar hasta ellas se nos hizo eterno!!!<br />
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Bonito día sino fuera por el viento!!!<br />
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Como os decía, los hijos de Toño consiguieron hacer un largo pero llegar a ellas les supuso un gran esfuerzo, abriendo paso con nieve hasta el pecho!!!, nos dijeron que al hielo le faltaba un poco para su completa formación pero que aun así ya era practicable...<br />
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Estuvimos un rato con ellos y cómo ya era tarde decidimos sabiamente regresar, el viento había borrado ya las huellas, no conocíamos mucho el camino y seguramente tendríamos que volver abrir el paso otra vez, con esa nieve y hacerlo antes de que se hiciera de noche!!!<br />
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Llegamos sobre las 17h a la furgoneta, Toño y su mujer nos estaban esperando. Toño había cogido otro camino y volvió antes que nosotros...Allí comimos y descansamos después de una dura jornada montañera!!!<br />
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A la mañana siguiente, el viento no había parado, parecía más fuerte todavía. Hacia incluso más frió. Tardamos un poco en salir, esperando a que amaneciera por completo y decidir entonces que hacer; si regresar o intentar hacer algo!!!<br />
Al salir el sol la cosa cambio repentinamente, dio un giro de 180º. El sol lucía imponente y el viento había cesado. La nieve y las pistas estaban increíbles, todo ello hacia presagiar en esos momentos un fabuloso día de montaña!!!<br />
Rápido empezó a llegar la gente, salimos de la furgo y preparamos todo el material, la opción era la de ir a ver si se habían formado cascadas en la zona de Paderna.<br />
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Abandonamos la pista de esquí de fondo para adentrarnos hacia la ladera, en busca del acceso más rápido y directo hacia las zona de cascadas. Nos tocó abrir otra vez huella y esta vez era peor, regatones y más regatones. Toño, que no iba con raquetas, se hundía hasta la cintura pero aun así seguimos nuestro destino, estas pequeñas cosas te curten y siempre hay que sacar algo positivo de todo y de cada decisión tomada.<br />
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Había tramos que incluso tuvimos que tirar de pala para abrir camino!!! y usar los bastones a modo de remo por delante del cuerpo para ayudarnos a progresar!!!<br />
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Seguro que alguno le ira bien este camino abierto!!!<br />
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Fue rápido pero duro, el llegar a pie de cascadas!!! Al hielo todavía le faltaba formación pero pudimos disfrutar el él y pasar feliz la mañana.<br />
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Volvimos a sacar la pala y me tocó remar como cabr... para llegar a ellas, ja!!!, cómo se reían Toño y Loren, los jodios!!!<br />
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Pudimos hacer tres vietas sencillas, con algún que otro resalte bonito...<br />
Al menos pasamos la mañana disfrutando del hielo y preparándonos para este invierno, que de momento no pinta nada mal!!!<br />
Os dejo una secuencia de fotos de la actividad!!!<br />
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Detrás mio, que bonito se veía el Salbaguardia!!!<br />
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Regatón de acceso!!!<br />
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Bonitos churros!!!<br />
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Ahora me cocaba a mi!!!<br />
Decidimos dejar los tornillo colocados, ya que no encontrábamos suficientes bloques donde entraran...<br />
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La idea era la de ir canteando, en la medida de lo posible, para evitar así romper mucho hielo, progresando con cuidado!!!<br />
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Toño dándome instrucciones, corrigiendome algún posible defecto de técnica y posicionamiento...<br />
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Pronto se echo la tarde y decidimos regresar al los coches, había que volver pronto a casa y todavía queríamos pasar por Barrabés, ja!!!<br />
Bonita estampa con el Perdiguero pequeñito al fondo, haber quien lo sabe reconocer!!!<br />
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Y bueno amigos, éste fue nuestro pequeño primer pasaje invernal de la temporada, ha sido corto pero intenso!!!<br />
Esperemos que durante los próximos días se forme más y mejor el hielo y podamos todos disfrutar pronto de él!!!<br />
Un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Hasta la próxima amigos, ir con cuidado!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-54591819966269234562012-11-23T19:39:00.000+01:002012-12-04T17:42:22.786+01:00Escalada en Riglos "Adamelo" y "la Caída de los dioses" 6a (V obligado)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Recuerdo hace muchos años cuando conocí este impresionante y curioso lugar. Fue en una bonita excursión que hice a Riglos, con todos los amiguetes de la pandilla que nos íbamos a Confirmar ese mismo año...<br />
La recuerdo con anhelo e ilusión, pues pasamos todos un fin de semana que seguro no podremos olvidar jamás!!!<br />
Conocí el pueblo, el lugar, sus gentes...Cuando paseaba a pie de esos Mallos, observaba impresionado aquel lugar, no podía imaginar por aquel entonces, que hubiera gente tan loca que se atreviera a desafiar y subir por ellos!!!, sólo pensarlo ya me daba miedo...Pues bien 15 años después volví otra vez, y no de turismo sino a escalar, a escalar por esos mismos Mallos que en tiempo atrás me dieron tanto miedo!!!, curioso no???, yo diría que inquietante.<br />
Me fui con Toño, al que ya conocéis. Me propuso hacer una de las vías más fáciles que se pueden hace allí!!!Aquí os dejo una reseña de la zona en la que escalamos sacada de Internet!!!<br />
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Nuestra intención inicial, era hacer el Espolón de Adamelo V+, pero al final y debido a la confusión de la pared en esa zona, casi sin darnos cuenta comenzamos haciendo los dos primeros largos de la vía de al lado "Caída de los Dioses": V y 6a, luego si, continuamos por la Adamelo.<br />
Muy cerca del pueblo, desde la lejanía, pude volver a contemplar impresionado aquel lugar, la verdad es que cuando lo volví a ver me pareció espectacular!!! Al llegar hacia teníamos algo de frío, a primera hora de la mañana el viento pegaba de lo lindo..., luego calmó!!!<br />
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Muy cerca de la entrada del pueblo hay magníficos lugares donde se pueden contemplar y fotografiar estas impresionantes formaciones rocosas!!!<br />
No os quiero mentir si os digo que estaba algo nervioso, no ya tanto por la pared sino más por mi escasa experiencia con el conglomerado, había estado alguna vez escalando en Vadiello y no me había gustado ese tipo de roca!!! En Riglos, el conglomerado es algo diferente, no es tan pequeño, son presas mas grandes!!! Deciros... que me fue bien, me gustó mucho este nuevo tipo de roca, me gustó mucho la experiencia!!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Placa en memoria de dos grandes escaladores, que abrieron importantes vías en este lugar...</td></tr>
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La verdad es que cuando llegas y te aproximas, impresionan esos muros...<br />
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Llegamos y preparamos todo el material..., escalamos en doble, con dos cuerdas de 1/2, de 60m, chapando las en modo alternativo para favorecer el propio dinamismo de las cuerdas en caso de caída.<br />
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Al llegar a pie de vía intentamos localizar el inicio...Decidí probar de primero, el largo no apuntaba difícil V.<br />
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Cuando comencé a escalar pronto me di cuenta del tipo de roca, me adapté rápido..., lo que me impresionó<br />
un poco era el alejamiento de las chapas en este lugar, aveces alguna que otra la colocan muy distante, ja!!!<br />
Llego a la primera reunión y la monto, rápido sube detrás Toño, a toda máquina!!!<br />
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Bonito largo, buenas presas y de momento la cosa pintaba bien...<br />
A nuestra izquierda vimos otra reunión. Nos pareció que era la de la vía decidimos cambiar de reunión y seguir por ella.<br />
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El siguiente largo (Caída de los dioses 6a), continuaba con una secuencia de pequeños techos de 6a que hacían de todo el largo que éste fuera bastante mantenido en su dificultad...Toño los superó sin problemas.<br />
Tardamos algo mas de tiempo porque en el cambio de reunión se provoco un ligero contratiempo, se había liado un poco la madeja de cuerdas y tuve que improvisar para des hacerla, ja!!!<br />
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Bonitos y duros techos de este duro largo!!!<br />
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Yo en este largo lo pasé algo mal, hasta el punto que por un momento no veía forma de sacar los duros pasos..., pero al final, alentado por Toño, logré superarlo, uffff!!!, duro largo, estaba en mi límite!!!, me había pasado factura un poco el desenrede de las cuerdas!!!<br />
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En la siguiente reunión sacamos la "pequeña" chuleta de Toño, el siguiente largo era de V. Éste lo podía hacer yo!!!<br />
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Como llevaba todo el material encima, seguí tirando, continua fácil, con pasos de IV, IV+, hasta el final del largo que viene una pequeña secuencia de V, aparecen justo antes de la R4 del E.Adamelo.<br />
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Toño en la R3 de Adamelo.<br />
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Mientras subo me hago alguna que otra foto..., desde aquí el pueblo ya se empieza a ver algo pequeño, ja!!!<br />
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Toño saluda, que vas a salir en Retovertical!!!<br />
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Llego a la R4 y sube Toño, bonito y fácil largo.<br />
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El siguiente lo continua Toño, es de IV, algo roto y cuesta ubicar las chapas!!!<br />
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Una vez en la R5, decidimos no seguir, pues nuestra intención era la de intentar llegar si se podía a la cima del Pisón, pero era algo tarde y todavía para bajar de allí nos quedaba bastante, pues bajar de estos lugares aveces es algo delicado, ja!!! Decidimos no continuar, abandonamos aquí, luego seguía un largo de III al que no le dimos importancia, pues ya nuestra intención no era la de llegar a la cima.<br />
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Nos dirigimos desde la R5 hacia la salida de los rápeles (por una guía de sirgas), pues esta pared se ha de bajar rapelando, es la única manera de bajar de aquí...<br />
Varios rápeles volados, el último de ellos de 60m!!!<br />
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Toño en el inicio del primer rapel...<br />
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Éste es el segundo rapel volado 40m!!! y le sigue otro mas pequeño!!!<br />
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Luego me tocará a mi!!!, os hago una foto mientra bajo!!!<br />
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Llegamos al tercer y ultimo rapel, éste es espectacular, no apto para principiantes, ja!!!<br />
Es un rapel volado de 60m de tirada, se puede fraccionar en dos!!! Hay una pequeña repisa intermedia.<br />
Toño me comenta que aveces, cuando hace bastante viento, al rapelar el viento te hace dar vueltas como loco e impresiona bastante!!!<br />
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La verdad es que es un rapel que impresiona.<br />
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Os hago una foto mientras bajaba a mitad de él!!!, se ve a Toño que se había quedado en la zona intermedia.<br />
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Cuando bajo...me alejo un poco de la pared para poder hacerle unas fotos mientras baja por el!!!<br />
No se si lo veréis!!!<br />
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Joder que pasada, he pasado casi mas apuros bajando de aquí que escalando, ja!!! Es toda una experiencia, salgo fortalecido de estas pequeñas cosas!!!Me gusta valorarlo todo, pues de todo y de todos se aprende.<br />
Ésto me refuerza mucho y se que sacaré muchas cosas positivas de ésta mi primera experiencia de escalada en Riglos!!!<br />
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Aquí os dejo amigos, espero que os haya gustado esta pequeña aventureta!!!<br />
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Por el momento me despido de este impactante lugar y de sus habitantes los Buitres!!!<br />
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Volveré!!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-87017719215767614422012-10-17T17:29:00.000+02:002012-10-17T20:24:16.034+02:00Vía Asterix 150m 6a (Olvena)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hacia ya varios días que no hacia nada de escalada, mi idea era la de volver a retomar el tema, volver a coger grado para este invierno!!!<br />
Llame a Raúl, había quedado con él hacia ya unos días para hacer algo de deportiva, la idea de hacer esta vía surgió despues; a dónde vamos, a qué sector, clásica o deportiva,...Hacia ya tiempo que le había pedido que algún día me llevase hacer la vía Asterix y con éso, allí que nos fuimos. No sabía si podría o no afrontar los pasos de sexto pero me decidí a intentarlo. Todavía era algo pronto, no estaba seguro de estar a ese nivel, al nivel que tiempo atrás había conseguido, ja!!!<br />
Nos desplazamos ha Olvena, era algo pronto. El día amanecía algo fresco y el viento se había levantado con fuerza. Al llegar a la pared la sombra de aquel lugar hizo que nos retiráramos al coche a esperar un poco a que el sol hiciera acto de presencia, ¡¡total la vía no es muy larga y tiempo nos sobraba!!!<br />
Raúl es mucho más escalador que yo. Yo empecé en ésto por mera preparación para la Montaña, si quieres progresar en ella, necesitas afianzar algo el grado en escalada. Por eso al llegar a la pared, le pedí a Raúl que tomara él las riendas, que abriera los largos y que me atara en "corto", que yo poco a poco me iría soltando, ja!!!<br />
De pequeño había visto gente subir por paredes como éstas, cuando los veía me causaban un gran ahogo al verlos allí arriba; colgados, maniatados,...Me preguntaba si yo algún día podría estar colgado en esas masas rocosas, simplemente me preguntaba si con el tiempo, sería capaz de intentar tal hazaña...Poco a poco voy asimilando lo que hago, pues para mi son todo pequeños retos, pequeños pasos que voy superando; aveces con más, aveces con menos miedo y cuando lo logro, del modo que sea, consigo una inmensa satisfacción por haberlo conseguido.<br />
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Esa es la pared en cuestión..., se encuentra en el sector "Pared del Santo Cristo" sobre el cañón de Olvena, en la margen Oeste de la N-123a, junto al Río Ésera y a la altura del pueblo de Olvena.<br />
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Bonito lugar, bonitos barrancos...<br />
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Llegamos y la primera mirada...<br />
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En las reseñas colocan un primer largo de 10m de II+ grado pero es fácil, se puede hacer sin asegurar.<br />
Llegamos a lo que es la segunda reunión, un vistazo atrás y precioso enclave, idílico lugar...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puente medieval, "Puente de los Infiernos"</td></tr>
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Sacamos la cuerda, preparamos todo y para arriba...<br />
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Segundo largo, que para nosotros es el primero..., 40m V grado...<br />
Las manos algo frías, el primer contacto con la roca caliza se hace algo durillo y sino que se lo digan a Raúl!!!<br />
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Seguidamente le sigo yo..., muy bien, poco a poco a medida que voy progresando me voy soltando cada vez más, ja!!!<br />
Incluso me hago alguna que otra foto subiendo.<br />
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Llego a la reunión y hacemos el cambio de cuerdas, pues Raúl abrirá también el segundo largo 40m V/6a (el 6a se encuentra casi al final del largo).<br />
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Desde la R2 las vistas ya empiezan a ser más bonitas!!!<br />
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Ésta es la pinta del segundo largo (el tercero según reseñas).<br />
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Abre Raúl...<br />
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En esta foto, se encuentra muy cerca ya del pasito de 6a!!! En estos largos se emplea una gran cantidad de cintas express, llevar al menos 12 o 13!!!<br />
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Monta reunión y... ahora me tocará a mi, cuando llegue no se cómo me irá el pasito de 6a, ja!!!<br />
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Ya empezamos a estar un poco altos no???, ja!!!<br />
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Me encuentro ya muy cerca del 6a, cuando llego a él me acuerdo de lo que empieza a ser un 6a, es algo más, es un nivel que para superarlo has de tener ese puntito de magia,... y justo me lo ponen al final del largo, joder!!! Justo al llegar me encuentro con la express que he de sacar, enseguida veo que no lo podré encadenar, me pongo nervioso, el "coco" empieza a trabajar de lo lindo, al final cansado ya después de algún intento que otro opto por "acerar"(significa que me agarro algún anclaje artificial para superar el paso), éso es cómo no superar!!!, pero bueno siempre ha de haber alguna vez de éstas en la vida de todo escalador, ahora se que tendría que haber venido un poco más preparado, seguro que a la próxima lo superaré y de primero, os lo prometo!!!<br />
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Me fastidia y me descoloca el no haber podido superarlo, pero bueno ésto ha de continuar, nos quedan todavía dos largos más, unos 75m más de pared, ja!!!<br />
Mirar que pequeño se ve ya el coche desde aquí!!!<br />
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Volvemos hacer el cambio de cuerdas para abrir el siguiente largo. En él hay otro pasito de 6a, justo después de la salida, un poco antes de llegar al tramo del diedro, en ese punto la vía de divide en dos, nosotros nos tiramos hacia el diedro (izq. V+/6a) y por la derecha sale otra vía de 60m 6a+ según reseñas.<br />
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Bonita salida...<br />
Esta reunión es un poco justa, lo digo por si la cordada es de tres!!!<br />
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Raúl se encuentra justo en el paso de 6a, donde además en él se divide la vía!!!<br />
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Mientras monta la reunión yo me hago unas fotos justo antes de salir...<br />
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Es una pared con unas vistas increíbles!!!<br />
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Al poco salgo yo, al llegar al 6a me vuelven a surgir algunas dudas a la hora de tener que sacar la cinta, voy algo justo y aunque lo supero, lo hago un poco vasto, me hubiera gustado haberlo hecho mejor!!!<br />
Después me voy hacia el diedro y os hago alguna foto!!!<br />
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En la reunión mi amigo Raúl, feliz y contento, le ha gustado hacerlo de primero!!!<br />
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Ahora toca ya el último largo, 30m IV+, esta vez si que me atrevo hacerlo de primero, muy fácil y muy rápido...<br />
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Llego y monto reunión, abajo se ve a Raúl justo antes de salir...<br />
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Saluda Raúl!!!<br />
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Llegamos en tan solo 1.45h, yendo tranquilos!!!<br />
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Llegados aquí se ha de continuar por el final del tramo de la vía ferrata que hay justo al lado hasta la cima (fácil) o bajar por ella!!!, hay sirgas para asegurar...<br />
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Llegamos al mirador, final de esta bonita aventura. En frente, el bonito pueblo de Olvena.<br />
Para empezar mi pre temporada en escalada, no ha estado mal no???<br />
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De bajada, os enseño la vía entera!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!</div>
Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-67790348908606408822012-10-15T13:51:00.000+02:002012-10-15T13:51:23.905+02:00Integral de Sierra Nevada 3ª Parte (Laguna de Lanjarón-Mirador Rinconada de Nigüelas)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Tercer día de travesía...<br />
11 cimas de tresmil metros (algunas catalogadas y otras sin catalogar o sin nombre) y 16 km recorridos en 7 horas.<br />
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Una vez había amanecido y después del desayuno, se decidió lo que se iba hacer; por un lado Santi y Manuel, habían decidido seguir la ruta por la vereda original del recorrido de la propia integral (linea azul del mapa), que va bordeando la margen derecha del valle según desciendes ( por La Loma Mediana), siguiendo el curso del propio río Lanjaron!!!, el resto (linea roja del mapa), decidimos recorrer el mismo tramo pero por su parte alta (ambas aristas), intentando con ello poder enlazar así el mayor numero de tresmiles posibles, contamos un total de 11 picos esa mañana, según reseñas...<br />
Ambos grupos partíamos juntos, inicialmente ascenderíamos hasta la propia arista de los Tajos Altos, pues Santi y Manu querían hacer al menos, el famoso pico del Cartujo, luego regresarían al valle y continuarían por la vereda.<br />
Amanecía algo fresco pero sereno, el día era propicio, todo el grupo estaba intacto, con las pilas puestas y dispuestos a terminar la Integral!!!<br />
Mientras ascendíamos hacia el Pico del Cartujo, podíamos divisar la arista que más tarde habríamos de recorrer, era inmensa..., intentábamos reconocer sus cimas, los pasos,... buscábamos a lo lejos una ruta de bajada hacia el valle ya que es lo que a todos algo nos preocupaba, encontrar una pequeña senda que baja del Cerrillo Redondo hasta el río!!!<br />
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Llegamos rápido a la arista y cerca se encontraba ya nuestro primer tresmil...<br />
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Un poco más adelante divisábamos dos objetivos más, que no estaban lejos y que luego decidimos hacer!!!<br />
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Pero primero tocaba hacer la foto en el Pico del Cartujo 3.160m!!!, aquí Santi y Manuel se separan del grupo y nosotros continuamos, nuestra intención era la de intentar hacer el mayor numero de cimas posibles...<br />
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Pues a por ello!!!, esos dos serian los siguientes, son picos sin nombre!!!<br />
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El primero!!!, un 3.112m!!!<br />
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Y ese, un poco más alejado...<br />
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...y puntiagudo,...<br />
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El segundo 3.111m...., ya llevábamos tres!!!<br />
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Siguiendo por la fácil arista podríamos haber continuado y haber llegado a nuestro destino final del día, el Cerro del Caballo, otro de los grandes que se veía a lo lejos!!!, pero debíamos de regresar e ir a buscar la otra arista del valle, allí se encontraba un mayor numero de cimas y nuestra intención era el hacerlas todas!!!<br />
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Mientras, nuestro dos compañeros ya se encontraban en la Vereda, disfrutando del camino, del paisaje,..., recorrían la vereda original de la integral, atravesando el valle, disfrutando del entorno propio del lugar.<br />
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Curiosos pasos encadenados...por los que atravesaron!!!<br />
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Dentro de un entorno espectacular, contemplando el amanecer con el mar de fondo!!!<br />
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Y acompañados en todo momento...<br />
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Aquí se ve a Manuel con el Cerro del Caballo al fondo!!!, ya lo tenían cerca!!!<br />
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Mientras nosotros continuábamos nuestro largo recorrido, coronando todos los pequeños picos por los que pasábamos!!!<br />
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Disfrutando del entorno y de las propias vistas de este curioso y magnífico valle en el que nos encontrábamos!!!<br />
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Sin perder altura, pronto nos situamos en la arista vecina, comenzando así un lardo recorrido por ella!!! Junto con el mapa, intentábamos reconocer los numerosos salientes, pero ello aveces parecía tarea imposible...<br />
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Nos hacíamos fotos en todos ellos, sin saber en cual nos encontrábamos, ja!!!<br />
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Mientras Manuel y Santi ya habían llegado a la laguna del Caballo, se encontraban en el collado que da acceso al propio pico. Ya estaban muy cerca de completar esta bonita aventura por tierras granadinas y estaban disfrutando del momento, intentando buscarnos a lo lejos en la arista para saber así por donde nos encontrábamos, pero fue imposible no nos pudieron localizar!!!<br />
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Mientras nosotros a lo nuestro, ja!!!<br />
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Intentando identificar los picos, ese es el Pico del Tajo de los Machos!!!<br />
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Justo en ese momento nuestros compañeros llegaban ya al Cerro del Caballo!!!, felicidades a los dos por este reto conseguido!!!<br />
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Sacaron algunas fotos del lugar de donde, tratando quizá de encontrarnos con el zoom de la cámara, ja!!!<br />
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En esos momentos nosotros coronábamos el Tajo de los Machos 3.088m!!!<br />
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Se ve detrás, bonito pico!!!<br />
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Después, justo en frente se encontraba ya a lo lejos el Cerrillo Redondo, era el último que haríamos en esta parte del valle!!!<br />
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Llegando al Cerrillo Redondo!!!, creemos que era éste por todo el mojón que había en la cima, un poco más adelante se veía otra pequeña cima pero la dejamos, ya era tarde y debíamos de bajar e ir a reunirnos con el resto del grupo!!!<br />
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Cerrillo Redondo 3.058m!!!<br />
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Ahora teníamos que encontrar alguna senda que nos facilitara el descenso hacia el río y poder así retomar la vereda y ascender al Cerro del Caballo, allí nos estaban esperando Santi y Manu!!!<br />
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Ya en el río podíamos contemplar nuestro objetivo final, decidimos parar a descansar y a coger algo de agua antes de seguir, pues la subida se temia algo durilla!!!<br />
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Nos resultó fácil y muy rápido de ascender..., llegamos rápido al Ref. del Caballo, desde aquí, ya podíamos ver a nuestros compañeros en la cima!!!<br />
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Desde la cima, nos hicieron unas fotos mientras ascendíamos hacia el collado, se me puede reconocer, voy el primero!!!<br />
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Y yo le hice otra a ellos en la cima, casi no se ven!!!<br />
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Momento grande, ya estábamos todos juntos y ya lo habíamos conseguido!!!<br />
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Último tresmil de la integral!!!, Cerro del Caballo 3.011m...<br />
Podemos decir que Reto Superadooooo!!!!!<br />
Se han quedado algunos tresmiles en el tintero pero da igual, otro día volveré y los haré todos del tirón, ja!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos mis seguidores, espero que os haya gustado esta travesía por tierras granadinas!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y Feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-86596716114073500322012-10-02T12:42:00.001+02:002012-10-15T13:53:07.569+02:00Integral Sierra Nevada 2ª Parte (Siete Lagunas-Laguna de Lanjarón)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Primera parte: <a href="http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/sierra-nevada-llegada-y-1-etapa.html">http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/sierra-nevada-llegada-y-1-etapa.html</a><br />
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Contamos 14 cimas entre; puntas, puntas sin nombre y picos catalogados.<br />
Recorrimos Aproximadamente 25km con unos 1.900m de desnivel+.<br />
En un total de 14,5h.<br />
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Noche tranquila, algo calurosa,...Decidimos, antes de ir a dormir, salvaguardar todo nuestro material bajo piedras, por los posibles ataques de cabras o rabosas. Esa noche no pasó nada especial, amanecía tranquilo, sereno,...Yo como de costumbre casi sin dormir, pero bueno ya estaba acostumbrado, ¡¡algo había dormido eso sería suficiente!!!<br />
Almorzamos copiosamente pues el día prometía largo y duro. Nuestro primer tresmil de la jornada iba a ser el Mulhacén, el pico más alto de toda la Península Ibérica!!! Todos teníamos especial ilusión, pues era uno de los grandes y estaba ya muy a tiro. Amanecía rápido, el Sol calentaba nuestras espaldas, se podía ver el mar..., nuestro ritmo de ascenso era rápido y continuo, parecíamos estar ya aclimatados a esta altura, a este lugar...En muy poco tiempo Manuel, Loren y yo, que nos habíamos adelantado, ya nos encontrábamos a las puertas de la cima, decidimos parar, decidimos esperar al resto y que fuera Santi, junto con Irene, los primeros en coronar esta preciosa cima, pues a Santi le hacía especial ilusión era ya su tercer intento y esta vez lo iba a conseguir...<br />
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Salimos hacia el Mulhacén...<br />
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Nuestras primeras rampas...<br />
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Llegamos al collado y giramos en dirección Oeste, frente a nosotros asomaba ya imponente el Mulhacén...<br />
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Ahí lo tenéis!!!!<br />
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Casi llegando vemos que hay gente en la cima, posiblemente hayan pasado la noche muy cerca de ella, pues hay varios sitios donde pasar la noche...<br />
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La observo distante mientras reunimos al grupo..., estoy tan cerca de la cima de nuestra Península!!!!<br />
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Al llegar me sorprendo del "tinglaoo" que hay montado!!, hay una especie de Altar con velas, todo ello protegido por una valla y justo encima colocado el hito geodésico de la cima...<br />
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Dejamos que sea Santi e Irene que sean los primeros en coronar...<br />
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Seguidamente lo hacemos los demás, yo me quedo en último lugar, pues quería disfrutar en la intimidad de este momento tan especial, estaba pensando en alguien y se lo quería dedicar!!!<br />
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Santi gracias por haberme traído hasta este lugar, muchas gracias!!!!<br />
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Foto de cima del Pico más alto de nuestra península, 3.479m!!!<br />
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Ésto para mi ya es un nuevo reto superado!!!, va por todos vosotros...<br />
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Quiero estar en el sitio más alto de la península!!!!, justo detrás el Alcazaba y debajo de él , el pico de mi Madre!!!!<br />
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Esta foto de recuerdo, al lado del Veleta...<br />
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Justo debajo, vemos los picos del Juego de Bolos que tendremos que hacer luego, están algo separados!!!<br />
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Dejamos ya la cima y continuamos nuestra travesía!!!<br />
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De bajada contemplamos lo que será el resto de la jornada!!!, vemos emergente el Puntal de la Caldera con su laguna y justo al lado, el Refugio. Al fondo el Veleta, otro de los grandes!!!<br />
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Nos aproximamos al Collado de la Mosca 3.120m que se ve a la derecha de la foto, desde allí bajaremos hacer los picos de Juego de Bolos..., regresaremos a iremos hacer el Puntal de la Caldera...<br />
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Ya desde el collado se ven a lo lejos las dos cimas, una de ellas sin nombre...<br />
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Bonita foto asomado a una cornisa, fotografiando las caras Nortes del Alcazaba y del Mulacén por si algún día regreso, ésto debe de ser muy bonito en invierno!!!<br />
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Continuamos primero hacia el pico S/N con 3.034m...<br />
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Foto de cima!!!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ErvM_eyl2_o/UGqbxmQtJyI/AAAAAAAAGrg/rxMZmllPJ_Y/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ErvM_eyl2_o/UGqbxmQtJyI/AAAAAAAAGrg/rxMZmllPJ_Y/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+258.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Y luego a por el pico Juego de Bolos!!! 3.018m.<br />
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Foto de cima!!!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7A5uji9FARI/UGqb5JyIUtI/AAAAAAAAGrw/_Hx1t4pM8xM/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7A5uji9FARI/UGqb5JyIUtI/AAAAAAAAGrw/_Hx1t4pM8xM/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+259.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Al regresar hacia el Collado de la Mosca, donde habíamos escondido las mochilas, Loren y yo decidimos tirar directos hacia el Puntal de la Caldera, el resto volverían para hidratarse un poco y hacerlo por la arista,<br />
en la cima nos encontraríamos .. <br />
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Nosotros subimos por esa pequeña arista...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrb6yeNZ-Xef2vSKUz1zt2FiZH3O01hr6_-scx5xz1yB6Ple0A1TthELyMHRxNb_aH5RjVz5EM8yM7oz0Q6aI0JVo1uoIKroZJwnxS0CKQi7SNpVr12T6ubG2byg5XSex70dtNkM5nj4/s1600/IMG_8856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrb6yeNZ-Xef2vSKUz1zt2FiZH3O01hr6_-scx5xz1yB6Ple0A1TthELyMHRxNb_aH5RjVz5EM8yM7oz0Q6aI0JVo1uoIKroZJwnxS0CKQi7SNpVr12T6ubG2byg5XSex70dtNkM5nj4/s400/IMG_8856.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Y ese es el Puntal de la caldera, visto por detrás!!!<br />
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Una fácil arista cimera y nos situamos rápido en su cima!!!<br />
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Bonitas vistas desde aquí!!!<br />
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Se aprecia muy bien toda la bajada del Mulhacén!!! y la vereda que lo recorre.<br />
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Cima!!!<br />
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Ya va llegando el resto!!!<br />
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Delante nuestro, todo el camino que nos quedaba, todavía se veía muy lejos el Veleta, ja!!!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QmqaI1GYERw/UGqckzmu99I/AAAAAAAAGs4/deissprRvNw/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QmqaI1GYERw/UGqckzmu99I/AAAAAAAAGs4/deissprRvNw/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+272.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Puntal de la Caldera 3.219m.<br />
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De bajada hacemos otra pequeña punta por si fuera otro tresmil sin catalogar!!<br />
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Esta es su cima, perdonar pero esta torcida!!!<br />
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Bonitas Nortes!!!, abajo la laguna de la Mosca.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xn7a-IEesEQ/UGqc36NucHI/AAAAAAAAGtg/O3uzjE3eWoo/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xn7a-IEesEQ/UGqc36NucHI/AAAAAAAAGtg/O3uzjE3eWoo/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+279.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Regresamos al Collado de la Mosca a recoger el material y bajar al refugio de la Caldera, más abajo recogeríamos agua en su laguna!!!<br />
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Ya con las botellas cargadas, continuamos por la vereda en dirección al collado, hacia la zona de los Crestones de Rio Seco.<br />
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Ya en el collado hacemos dos puntas, una de ellas sin nombre y la otra es la Punta de Loma Pelada 3.185m.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a3dQp1c_jZI/UGqdbtEwELI/AAAAAAAAGuQ/uaOUOBy8LXc/s1600/IMG_8897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a3dQp1c_jZI/UGqdbtEwELI/AAAAAAAAGuQ/uaOUOBy8LXc/s640/IMG_8897.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Bonitas vistas desde este collado!!!<br />
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Cima S/N...<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aHeQZWFcF8E/UGqdjxlimwI/AAAAAAAAGug/ZdV-wyQX-Qk/s1600/IMG_8898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aHeQZWFcF8E/UGqdjxlimwI/AAAAAAAAGug/ZdV-wyQX-Qk/s400/IMG_8898.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Y ésa es la de la Loma Pelada...<br />
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Cima de Punta de Loma Pelada!!!, detrás el Mulacén...<br />
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Nuestro siguiente objetivo seria esos dos pico que se ven; Veleta (izq.) y el Cerro de los Machos (der.)<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zDxigOCT65o/UGqduFa7UPI/AAAAAAAAGu4/gOOmBRx-2Qg/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zDxigOCT65o/UGqduFa7UPI/AAAAAAAAGu4/gOOmBRx-2Qg/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+295.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Pero al regresar al collado, Santi nos dice que hay una punta que también es catalogada como tresmil, a por ella...el Cerro Boto.<br />
Ésa es...<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbpjr-IoVDY/UGqd7XYLRKI/AAAAAAAAGvQ/7i7mfJ_zqQM/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbpjr-IoVDY/UGqd7XYLRKI/AAAAAAAAGvQ/7i7mfJ_zqQM/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+296.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ahora si, debemos de descender del collado y seguir la vereda que discurre por los Crestones de Rio seco...<br />
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Adiós Mulhacén, hasta otra!!!, volveré algún día!!!<br />
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Foto de Cima Cerro Boto.<br />
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Ésos son los Crestones de Rio Seco!!!, hay varios cotas catalogadas S/N, están al borde mismo del camino.<br />
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Continuamos por la vereda, vamos encontrando un gran numero de senderistas, pues muy cerca de aquí se puede acceder fácilmente con vehículos y hacer cortos recorridos a gran altura!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqLGIUkcVZJu3mf2KEACQRiQmpaCewxsjHBnmtK19Zd6n5pmGjiVGEfRaY6fQTe0ETrp6GWztwNHAkZNpbNU6Vd7uAPq0kScES1Ki6B8oEWivzQxabR7eWucHDdR7Fp_DaTlGvd1JKHo/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqLGIUkcVZJu3mf2KEACQRiQmpaCewxsjHBnmtK19Zd6n5pmGjiVGEfRaY6fQTe0ETrp6GWztwNHAkZNpbNU6Vd7uAPq0kScES1Ki6B8oEWivzQxabR7eWucHDdR7Fp_DaTlGvd1JKHo/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+301.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A nuestra Izquierda se ven los Raspones de Rio Seco, bonitos!!!, con tiempo me hubiera gustado meterme en ellos...<br />
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Detrás mio los Crestones de Rio Seco..., también me hubiera gustado hacer todas las puntas pero no había tiempo...<br />
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Ésos son los Crestones y la vereda discurre justo debajo de ellos por lo que son de fácil acceso!!!<br />
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Justo delante nuestro el Cerro de lo Machos!!!, sería nuestro siguiente destino.<br />
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Una mirada atrás!!!<br />
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Delante el Veleta!!!<br />
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Un guía nos explica cómo continuar y cómo acceder,desde el Cerro al Veleta, por el famoso Paso de los Guías, un pequeño desfiladero habilitado con cadenas por el que se dice se acorta una media hora para ir al Veleta!!!<br />
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Subiendo hacia el Cerro, fotografiamos la cima del Veleta, ya muy cerca!!!<br />
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Y ése es el Cerro de los Machos!!!<br />
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La arista del Cerro de los Machos al Veleta!!!<br />
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Subida con buen sendero y ya casi estamos en el Cerro!!<br />
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Que cerca queda ya el Veleta!!!<br />
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Cima del Cerro de los Machos!!!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8PDRE_BNyKI/UGqfzZ2-h8I/AAAAAAAAGyg/H85v6X3X9kQ/s1600/IMG_8956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8PDRE_BNyKI/UGqfzZ2-h8I/AAAAAAAAGyg/H85v6X3X9kQ/s640/IMG_8956.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Se aprecian unas instalaciones deportivas de máximo rendimiento, están ubicadas a gran altura!!!<br />
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Cerro de los Machos 3.327m.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8__WBv2rqwSQLNJarWOLPAY1dYi-_NcJGlVCKvyn_yLF4iguZFZ1jsZwjJeh5OuXcNurtQLp3uuBbqjQn6XsEsxxdPCK_tXFFg-tGZ_YP38XuZWtwUq5l_vohIBu7w3CNs04vP3UsYxs/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8__WBv2rqwSQLNJarWOLPAY1dYi-_NcJGlVCKvyn_yLF4iguZFZ1jsZwjJeh5OuXcNurtQLp3uuBbqjQn6XsEsxxdPCK_tXFFg-tGZ_YP38XuZWtwUq5l_vohIBu7w3CNs04vP3UsYxs/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+324.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Todo lo recorrido en el día de hoy!!!<br />
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De bajada vemos ya a lo lejos, el famoso paso...<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nmSpGjQgCHA/UGqgcsI2sgI/AAAAAAAAGzo/4cB7jFc4OIE/s1600/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nmSpGjQgCHA/UGqgcsI2sgI/AAAAAAAAGzo/4cB7jFc4OIE/s640/2012+09%252C+14+Integral+Sierra+Nevada+331.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Y por donde continua la vereda hacia la normal del Veleta...<br />
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Rápido llegamos al paso en cuestión, delicado pero fácil!!!<br />
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Os dejo una foto que hice cuando lo cruzaba, ja!!!<br />
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Otra desde arriba!!!<br />
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Muy cerca ya vemos el Refugio de la Carihuela, muy cerca ya del Veleta!!! Para acceder al Veleta desde aquí no nos hizo falta llegar a él, nos desviamos a la derecha en busca del camino que sube...<br />
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Y a lo lejos vemos ya el Veleta!!!<br />
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Ya las fuerzas en el grupo están algo justas pero yo me encuentro muy bien, decido subir con todo el equipaje a todo lo que mi cuerpo me de, me encontraba bien y nada cansado, en tan sólo 11min. de reloj hago cima en el Veleta!!!<br />
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Bonitas vistas, al fondo el Cerro de los Machos de donde veníamos!!!<br />
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Ya veo al grupo llegar...<br />
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Grande y altooooo!!!!!<br />
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Cima del Veleta 3.396m!!!!<br />
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Disfrutamos un poco del día que hace, de lo conseguido,...De bajada voy contemplando lo que nos quedaba por hacer!!!<br />
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La idea inicial era tirar por esas crestas (Tajos del Nevero) hacia la Laguna de Lanjaron...Santi y Manu estaban algo cansados y decidieron continuar por la Vereda y hacer noche en las Lagunillas de la Virgen, allí nos encontraríamos.<br />
Todavía era muy pronto, Loren, Irene y Yo decidimos hacer algunos de lo tresmiles de la cresta, sin mochilas y regresar otra vez a la vereda...<br />
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Por lo que nos separamos. Con Loren e Irene fuimos directos hacia la la tan temida cresta, haciendo todas las puntas que íbamos encontrando...<br />
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Se nos hacia tarde y decidimos abandonar, nos quedó uno en el tintero...<br />
Regresamos por una senda que flanquea esta cresta, para ir más rápidos.<br />
Al llegar a la Lagunillas vimos que éstos no estaban, habían decidido continuar hacia la laguna de Lanjaron...<br />
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De bajada vimos otra punta que hicimos por si fuera o no otro tresmil!!!, era un 3.100m y creo que reunía los requisitos!!!, por lo que contábamos ya 6 puntas realizadas en esta corta travesía!!!<br />
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Bajando hacia las Lagunillas!!!, día precioso, ideal para hacer montaña!!!<br />
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Lagunillas de la Virgen!!!<br />
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Continuamos la vereda hacia Lanjaron, subiendo hacia el Ref. de Elorrieta, allí haríamos nuestro último tresmil de la jornada!!!<br />
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Refugio de Elorrieta!!!<br />
Ya casi anochecía y casi nos tocó correr, ja!!!<br />
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Lástima, ése es el corto tramo que nos falto de cresta, de haber sabido que ellos habían continuado hasta Lanjaron, lo podíamos haber hecho todo y enlazar la vereda por este cresterio!!! Se veía fácil lo que nos quedaba, nada que ver de cómo nos lo habían pintado, por el momento nos habíamos encontrado algún corto paso de III/III+!!!<br />
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Cerca del Refugio hicimos otra punta y rápido para abajo...,ya era hora de descansar!!!, llevábamos ya casi 15 horas de travesía en el día de hoy y se hacía rápido de noche!!!<br />
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Llegamos a Lanjarón y todo estaba ya montado!!!, Santi y Manuel habían hecho las faenas de la casa, cenamos y nos fuimos a dormir después de un día largo de Montaña!!!!<br />
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Un saludo a todos y Feliz andada!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Ir a la tercera parte: <a href="http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/10/integral-de-sierra-nevada-3-parte.html">http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/10/integral-de-sierra-nevada-3-parte.html</a><br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-47050827439110182782012-09-27T12:32:00.000+02:002012-10-15T13:53:29.666+02:00Integral Sierra Nevada, llegada y 1ª etapa (Ref.Postero Alto-Siete Lagunas)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Dia 1º: salida desde Monzón a las 6 de la mañana...llegada a Durcal (Granada), donde nos reunimos con Manuel. Desde allí un taxis de la zona no lleva hasta el Refugio de Postero alto, donde pasamos la noche previa al inicio de esta bonita integral. Integral que discurre por la cordillera de Sierra Nevada, por una zona en la que están agrupados todos los tresmiles de esta sierra...Atraves de ella, trataremos de enlazar el mayor numero de tresmiles que podamos...<br />
La verdad es que es un lugar de una belleza diferente..., algo seco, un tanto insólito, muy diferente a lo que estoy acostumbrado en nuestro Pirineo. Para mi entender es una zona un poco virgen, pues la mayor parte de los tresmiles parecen estar todavía sin catalogar, muchos sin nombre y alguno de ellos crean algo de dudas en su ubicación... Creo que falta algo de trabajo en ese sentido..., pero bueno ésto es una humilde y personal opinión que dejo!!! Su mayor o menor dureza está en función de cómo la quieras hacer; numero de jornadas, picos realizados,...<br />
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Pues bien tras este pequeño preámbulo os pasaré a relatar esta bonita aventura por tierras Granadinas, en compañía de un grupo inmejorable compuesto por: Manuel, Irene, Santi, Lorenzo y yo...<br />
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De camino a Granada, parada obligada para descansar, parada en una vía de servicio...<br />
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Tras 9 horas de coche, llegamos al pueblo de Durcal, famoso por haberle dado el nombre artístico a Rocío Durcal!!!<br />
Allí nos estaba esperando Manuel, pues él vive entre Madrid y Malaga...<br />
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Al lado del Centro de salud tomamos unas copas para celebrar este magnífico reencuentro y preparar un poco todo, pues en un rato nos pasaría a buscar un taxi que nos llevaría hasta el ref. de Postero Alto donde pasaríamos la noche!!!, grandiosas las tapas granadinas y excelentes gentes éstas!!!<br />
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Llegada al Refugio, acceso por una muy buena pista hasta él...<br />
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Curioso refugio y diferente como ninguno!!!<br />
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Rápido nos dan alojamiento...<br />
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Y pronto la cena, pues hay que madrugar... Conocimos a una pareja de Elche con la que conversamos sobre Marruecos (pues Manu quiere volver pronto hacer los cuatromiles que nos quedan pendientes en esa zona) y sobre la propia integral. Nos advirtieron de los cuantiosos ataques nocturnos de las cabras y rabosas de la zona, nos dijeron que guardáramos bien la comida, basura y sobre todo las botas...<br />
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Dia 2º: Ref. Postero Alto- Siete Lagunas (vivac).<br />
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Realizados 19/20 tresmiles entre catalogados y sin catalogar.<br />
Recorridos aprox.25km y 2.300m de desnivel+.<br />
Recorrido realizado en 12h.<br />
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A las 6 de la mañana partíamos con nuestros frontales, en completa oscuridad,... cargados y llenos de ilusión. Inicialmente debíamos de superar 1200m de desnivel hasta llegar alcanzar nuestro primer tresmil de la jornada, el Picón de Jerez 3.088m.<br />
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Rápido 2,45h ya en la Cima del Picón de Jerez...<br />
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Hacía algo de viento y bastante frío esa mañana...<br />
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Seguidamente debíamos de continuar en dirección N hacia el siguiente, el Puntal de Juntillas 3.140m...<br />
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Puntal de Juntillas, segundo del día...<br />
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El año pasado Loren, Santi y Manuel intentaron realizar esta integral pero por motivos personales tuvieron que regresar, a mi me tocaba ir haciendo algunos tresmiles que ya habían hecho ellos, como no, corriendo hacia ellos, Loren me acompañó, los demás continuaron, más tarde nos juntaríamos...<br />
Aquí con Loren se nos ve corriendo hacia el Cerro Pelado 3.182m, luego haríamos alguna puntas más sin catalogar...<br />
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Vistas del Alcazaba y del Mulhacén..., el Veleta a la derecha.<br />
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Alcazaba y Mulhacén de cerca!!!<br />
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Cerro Pelado con Loren...<br />
Vuelta hacia tras a por las mochilas y a seguir la cresta...<br />
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Abajo en el valle las Lagunas de Juntillas...<br />
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Mientras el resto del grupo coronan el Pico de los Cervatillos 3.113m...<br />
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Que es ése, hacia el que nos dirigiamos con Loren...<br />
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Luego tendríamos que ir hacia el Puntal de los Cuartos 3.152m, allí nos volveríamos a reunir con el grupo...<br />
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El grupo ya en el Puntal de los Cuartos, haciéndose fotos...<br />
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Nosotros mientras coronando el Pico de los Cervatillos...<br />
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En poco tiempo damos caza al grupo que nos estaban esperando...<br />
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...juntos en el Puntal de los Cuartos!!!<br />
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Una mirada hacia detrás, curiosa cresta Granadina, no estoy acostumbrado a tanta loma, haber cuando llegan ya las piedras, ja!!!<br />
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Y todo lo que nos queda hasta la Alcazaba!!!<br />
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Continuamos nuestro comino en dirección al pico de la Atalaya..., comienza una zona de piedras y algo de bloques...<br />
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Santi se adelanta y nos toma algunas instantáneas...<br />
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Y en poco tiempo nos clavamos en la cima de la Atalaya 3.139m.<br />
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Yo al poco me adelanto, no quiero hacer esperar al grupo, quiero hacer el Cerro del Mojón Alto, que ellos ya lo tenían hecho..., desciendo a buena marcha hacia el coll de Buitreras 2.992m y desde allí remonto hacia el pico del Cuervo 3.145m, donde abandoné la mochila y me fui corriendo, sin pausas al Mojón Alto.<br />
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Veis esos son; Pico de Cuervo (izq.) y Cerro del Mojón Alto (der.), curiosos nombres les dan, ja!!!<br />
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De camino al Pico del Cuervo me tuerzo mi mal herido tobillo izquierdo, que tanta lata me está dando últimamente pero no le doy importancia, se recupera pronto pero con alguna molestia...<br />
Cima del Pico de Cuervo...<br />
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Rápido a por el otro antes de que lleguen éstos...., parece que no pero está un poquillo lejos!!!<br />
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Rápido llego a él, Cerro del Mojón Alto 3.115m.<br />
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Vuelvo al Pico del Cuervo donde me tomo un bendito Espidifren que tan bien me va en estos casos de inflamación de alguna articulación..., todos juntos en el Pico del Cuervo!!!<br />
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Por delante ya más cerca se ve el Alcazaba!!!, pero todavía nos queda jornada!!!<br />
Frente a nosotros, siguiendo la loma, el siguiente que se ve es el Puntal de Vacares 3.143m, allí pararíamos a comer!!!<br />
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Y ya muy cerca se veía ya el Alcazaba y su corredor Norte de subida ("Canuto del Alcazaba"), justo detrás el Mulhacén...<br />
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Otra foto de grupo antes de partir...<br />
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Nos dirigimos hacia el collado Cuneta de Vacares 2.968m, a su izquierda la Laguna de Vacares.<br />
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Frente a nosotros ya el Puntal de Vacares...<br />
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Me adelanto y corono en solitario este magnífico y duro pico!!!<br />
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Puntal de Vacares 3.143m, justo ya detrás el Alcazaba!!!<br />
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Una mirada atrás!!!<br />
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Hacia delante...<br />
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Breve parada para comer algo contundente y reponer líquido...<br />
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Algo de crema que pegaba el sol de lo lindo!!!<br />
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Algunos nos quitamos las botas y dejamos secando los calcetines...<br />
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Y vamos ya observando el acceso Norte del Alcazaba, quizá el tramo más técnico de la integral, fácil II+.<br />
Frente a nosotros un pico anterior a la Alcazaba, Puntal de las Calderetas.<br />
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Éste es el Puntal de las Calderetas!!!<br />
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Y yo en su cima!!!<br />
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Foto de grupo Puntal de las Calderetas 3.047m.<br />
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En frente lo que pareciera ser otro tresmil sin catalogar, por si a caso lo hacemos!!!<br />
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Continuamos nuestra ruta hacia el Alcazaba!!!<br />
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Esa es la ruta que Santi ha elegido, bonito corredor Norte, "el Canuto", me gustaría hacerlo en invierno!!!<br />
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Una vez ya en casa y habiendo mirado las reseñas puedo decir que ese pico puntiagudo es el Puntal del Goterón, previo a la Alcazaba, nos lo dejamos sin hacer, lástima tendré que volver algún día para hacerlo!!!<br />
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Y este es el Canuto por donde subimos...muy fácil aunque al principio impresione!!!<br />
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Rápido nos hacemos con él y llegamos a la ansiada cima del Alcazaba, un da los grandes de España con 3.364m.<br />
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Esa punta de abajo que se ve, es la que os decía, creo que es el Puntal del Goterón!!!<br />
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Bonito día..., bonitas vistas y bonito travesía para mañana!!!, hoy dormiremos a las faldas del Mulhacén...<br />
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Cima del Alcazaba 3.364m!!!!<br />
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Resto de lo que dicen ser de un avión, según reseñas!!!<br />
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Ahora nos quedaran 4 tresmiles más y a cenar!!!<br />
Esos dos, que el de la derecha es el Peñón del Globo 3.288m y el de la izquierda, que es una punta sin catalogar...<br />
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Pero antes de esos dos, nos encontramos con lo que parece ser otro tresmil ya que reúne requisitos y sale en los mapas, justo anterior al Puntal de la Cornisa y justo bajando del Alcazaba, al que bautizamos con el apellido de mi madre, <span style="color: yellow;">Pico Arroyos con 3.311m</span>, se lo dedico a la mejor madre del mundo, que es la mía (Pilar) y a TODAS las MADRES de España!!!, si os parece bien claro!!!, para mi seria algo muy importante ya que es la que más sufre cuando yo no estoy en casa, me lo ha dado todo y lo más importante de todo, me ha dado la vida!!!<br />
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Éste es amigos recordarlo bien!!!, ahora ya tiene nombre y se llama Pico Arroyos!!!<br />
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Seguidamente hacemos el Puntal de la Cornisa 3.313m.<br />
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El Peñón del Globo 3.288m...<br />
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Y la punta S/N, de su izquierda!!!<br />
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Justo debajo Las Siete Lagunas, donde haremos vivac!!!<br />
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Y detrás nuestro ya, el Mulhacén, pico más alto de nuestra península!!!<br />
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Entre el Puntal de la Cornisa y el Peñón del Globo (según reseña Maskarell), baja un paso que le llaman El Colaero, por el que alcanzamos las lagunas!!!<br />
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Llegamos cansados y con algo de hambre...<br />
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Montamos nuestro pequeño refugio para pasar la noche, algo intranquilos por los posibles ataque de los animales.<br />
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Y bueno esto es lo que aconteció en este primer día de travesía..., pronto os colocaré el siguiente!!!<br />
De Siete Lagunas a la Laguna de Lanjarón.<br />
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Un saludo a todos!!!<br />
Nos vemos por el Monte!!!<br />
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Ir a la 2ª Parte: <a href="http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/10/integral-sierra-nevada-2-parte-siete.html">http://retovertical.blogspot.com.es/2012/10/integral-sierra-nevada-2-parte-siete.html</a><br />
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1835120654525146143.post-53513604028137718672012-09-03T12:35:00.001+02:002012-09-10T18:48:44.360+02:00Cresta de Llosás AD.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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El pasado 25 de Agosto me fui con mi amigo y compañero de cordada Lorenzo Sierra ha intentar hacer cima en el Aneto, por la mítica y espectacular Cresta de Llosás y enlazar así un total de 7 tresmiles...<br />
Cogimos el últimos bus que te deja en el refugio de Ballibierna, desde allí subimos al Ibón Inferior de Coronas donde montamos la tienda y pasamos la noche!!!<br />
Noche fría, ya tenía ganas de algo de fresco!!!, este verano está siendo demasiado durillo con tanta calor!!!<br />
En esta foto se puede ver el acceso al Collado Inferior de Llosás, punto de partida de la cresta, no es necesario llegar al mismo collado, ya que justo al empezar aparecen a la izquierda dos brechas paralelas (la más directa es la segunda) que suben en diagonal y te dejan en la misma cima del primer tresmil, Aguja Argarot Sur 3.040m (no está catalogada dentro de los Tresmiles, pero en Internet salen varias reseñas que indican que esta aguja reúne ciertos requisitos para ser considerado tresmil, es un saliente con una prominencia de más de 10m desde el pico principal), nosotros nos la apuntamos como hecha, por si a caso!!!<br />
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A las 5 de la mañana suena el despertador, ha sido una noche para mi muy dura, no he podido dormir NADA, lo que se dice nada..., ésto de dormir en el suelo..., no logro acostumbrarme!!! También debido a mi trabajo, por el tema de los turnos, no conseguí dormirme..., bueno... y seguramente, por el estado de nervios previos a una aventura de este tipo, para mi es algo costoso, todavía no estoy acostumbrado hacer incursiones de este tipo sin el amparo de alguien que sepa más que tú, estoy quizá demasiado mal acostumbrado y las primeras veces cuesta, estás nervioso, algo inquieto,...quieres que salga todo bien y quieres tenerlo todo muy bien atado, acumulas tensión durante horas y eso es algo que puede ser peligroso, te castiga, te va consumiendo y si le dejas, al final te puede vencer!!!, pero como todo en la vida, uno ha de pasar por ésto tarde o temprano, hay que curtirse y saber estar a la altura..., sé que llevo un gran compañero y un gran amigo y se que juntos formamos una buena cordada.<br />
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Bueno como os decía, maldita noche la mía...desayunamos, cogimos el material y para arriba!!!<br />
Y don Lorenzo, ronquido va ronquido viene, que suerte la suya, ja!!!!<br />
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Ésta es la brecha que sube en diagonal hacia el mismo pico por la que subimos, muy al final con algún paso de II.!!!<br />
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En una horeta, nos clavamos en la cresta y hacemos nuestro primer tresmil del día, Argarot Sur 3.040m!!!!<br />
Bonitas vistas, al fondo el Aneto...Espectacular cresta que recomiendo!!!, bonitas y entretenidas agujas!!!!<br />
Ésta es una clásica de entre las clásicas y todavía no me creo que esté metido en ella!!<br />
Ésto empieza amigos!!!<br />
Frente a nosotros el siguiente, prácticamente pegado, su vecino el Argarot principal!!!<br />
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Foto desde la cima del A.Argarot Sur 3.040m!!!!<br />
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Detrás nuestro el Pico Ballibierna y el Culebres!!!!, los hice en solitario hace unos años!!!<br />
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Bajas rápido a un colladete y enseguida has de remontar a la Aguja Argarot principal, fácil trepadeta!!!<br />
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A nuestra izquierda el Ibón Sup.de Coronas y su circo!!!, duro pedregal!!!!<br />
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Enfrente a la derecha, la brecha de Tempestades!!!<br />
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Y frente a nosotros este magnifico y precioso caos de bloques por los que habremos de pasar!!!<br />
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Trepadeta II/II+, para llegar al Argarot Principal!!!<br />
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Ponemos rápido los brazos a tono, ésto va ha ser largo!!!<br />
De momento hace algo de frió y la roca te bloquea las manos, se hace duro el primer contacto con la roca fría!!!<br />
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Subo y detrás mio viene Loren...<br />
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Me adelanto y corono el Argarot 3.035m, segundo del día!!!<br />
Bonita foto en la cima del Argarot con el Maldito detrás mio, esa cresta la hice hace muy pocos días!!!<br />
Ahora vendrá lo más delicado de la cresta, las siguientes agujas, con algún paso de IV+/V evitable!!!<br />
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Desde la cima del Argarot se contempla lo grandioso de este lugar!!!, no tengo palabras para describiros ésto, bonito crestón, creo que tendríais que venir a verlo vosotros mismos, ja!!!<br />
Frente a nosotros la siguiente aguja, la aguja innombrable, A.Tchihatcheff 3.052m AD.<br />
Desde aquí ya se ve el tramo de IV+ seguido de la famosa placa fisurada (para mi II+, o III por su exposición),...<br />
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Foto de cima, Argarot 3.035m!!!<br />
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Ése es el peñón que hay que escalar, donde te encuentras con algún que otro pasito delicado!!!<br />
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Os saco la foto entera para que veáis completo todo el ascenso a esta aguja, tiene su miga y es muy disfrutona!!!<br />
El peñón inicial, se puede bordear por ambos flancos que te dejan en la parte de la placa fisurada que se ve.<br />
Para llegar a él, hay que de destrepar hacia la brecha, delicado pero fácil destrepe, sin problemas!!!, nosotros lo hicimos por la derecha, según bajas!!!<br />
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Y ésta es mi pequeña reseña de cómo lo hicimos, claro está que lo hicimos por lo bonito, como tiene que ser!!! La roja es como normalmente lo hace la gente, yo tire por la azul (delicado-fisura rota) y a mi compañero lo subí por la marrón...<br />
Pero bueno como os decía, si llegáis aquí, ésto se puede evitar por ambos lados, creo que reseñan más fácil el derecho II+/III.<br />
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Luego llegareis a una placa bonita de hacer..., desde donde se sacan bonitas fotos!!!, luego llega la parte final de grandes bloques hasta llegar a la cima II+/III.<br />
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Se vé a Lorenzo en el destrepe desde la cima del Argarot, yo ya estoy situado frente al paso delicado!!!<br />
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Ésto es la clave de la vía, empieza por un pequeño extraplomo, encontrareis un clavo a la derecha donde podréis asegurarlo!!!<br />
Me gusta sacar varias fotos para que la gente vea cómo es y poder juzgar, siempre ayuda!!!<br />
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Bueno al llegar a la brecha, sacamos las cuerdas (dos cordinos gemelos de 30m, escalamos en doble), nos colocamos los pies de gato y me dispongo abrir el largo!!!<br />
Montamos reunión en una de las piedras del suelo y coloco inicialmente un fisurero que evite el factor!!!<br />
Rápido supero el paso, tiene su miga, hay que afrontarlo con decisión...<br />
Subo a una repisa inclinada y continuo, busco lo evidente y tiro hacia delante, veo una fisura algo rota, por la que poder subir. Llego a la cresta y me doy cuenta de que me he saltado la reunión, retrocedo por el filo ya que donde estaba, las piedras que había, no me daban seguridad para montar mi propia reunión y que ésta fuera segura...<br />
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Una vez asegurado, le tiro una foto al destrepe del Argarot hasta la brecha, para que lo veáis mejor!!!<br />
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Y una foto de la fisura rota (III+) por a que he subido, de ahí he retrocedo por la arista hasta el cordino abandonado que se ve más atrás, desde donde podré asegurar a Loren...<br />
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En frente mio la placa fisurada..., no es tan fiera como parece!!!<br />
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Desde la reunión, por ese filo tendría que haber subido!!!<br />
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Sube Loren con algún apurillo y pronto se sitúa debajo mio.<br />
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Le hago subir de frente por una placa muy bonita III+.<br />
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"Agárrate bien que te hago una foto"...<br />
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Llega a la reunión y le digo que tire él para no liar las cuerdas, justo al comienzo de la placa me asegura.<br />
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Ésta es la placa, lo hago sin problemas, fácil y disfrutona, pero con algo de ambiente!!!<br />
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Llego rápido a la reunión y aseguro a Loren.<br />
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Bonita foto!!!<br />
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Continua Loren hacia la cima, zona de bloques IIIº.<br />
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Bonita y entretenida aguja!!!<br />
Impresionantes vistas, nos pega el sol y se agradece!!!, pero todavía nos queda mucho.<br />
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Tercer tresmil del día, Aguja Tchihatcheff 3.052m.<br />
Justo detras mio la siguiente, la aguja Franqueville.<br />
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Desde la cima, continuando encontramos la reunión para hacer el rapel de 40m.<br />
En reseñas había leido que si te tiras hacia la derecha, el rapel es más corto, para ello hay varias posibilidades. Nosotros destrepamos un poco por la derecha (10m) hasta encontrar otra reunión, desde la que hicimos el rapel con dos cordinos de 30m. Mientras vas rapelando te vuelves a encontrar dos posibles reuniones mas, por si quisieras fraccionarlo pero lo vi bien y lo hicimos de tirón.<br />
La primera impresión es algo jodida, no lo teníamos muy claro, no veíamos continuidad no veíamos el final del la cuerda y si ésta había llegado al suelo, no veíamos la siguiente reunión, sabía que tenía que estar ahí, me la jugué un poco y bajé haber que pasaba, algo se me ocurriría, me hubiera subido Loren, tiraría de Machard,... Loren tenía alguna que otra polea!!!<br />
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Un seguro incierto..., estaba algo nervioso no sabia que me iba a encontrar!!!<br />
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Pronto lo vi claro, vi la reunión un poco más abajo, evalué la situación y vi que podía bajar hasta abajo, allí ya vería..., este rapel no te deja en la misma brecha y quizá tuviese que pendular un poco, me gustaba la idea, cómo me dice un gran amigo mio (Carlos), "...recursos compañero, recursos..."<br />
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Bajando os hago una foto, en ese resalte está la primera reunión que me encuentro, un poco más abajo veo otra dentro de la misma grieta en la que hay sombra.<br />
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Llego abajo, no me queda má cuerda, he hecho nudos a las puntas y con todo bloqueado penduleo hacia la derecha, veo un cordido y allí me aseguro para que baje Loren , ya estoy en la brecha.<br />
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Loren se dispone a bajar.<br />
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Desde la brecha continua hacia la siguiente aguja, la Franqueville, se comienza bordeando ese peñón por la izquierda.<br />
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Éste hubiera sido el rapel de 40 por el diedro pero no quisimos llevar tanta cuerda para un solo rapel...<br />
En este rapel de 40m, se puede ver un cordino instalado con clavos para hacerlo fraccionado, justo en la sombra, pero no logro ver para deciros cómo está, podría no ser muy fiable, no os lo puedo decir!!!<br />
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Baja Loren y le voy indicando...<br />
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Llega justo donde se encuentra la primera reunión intermedia...<br />
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Continua...<br />
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Justo donde se encuentra es donde he visto cordinos para hacer otra reunión intermedia, dentro de la fisura.<br />
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De ahí se puede ya pendular un poco.<br />
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Encontramos una cinta azul colocada en un saliente, veo que otros han hecho lo mismo, lo había leído en alguna reseña!!!<br />
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Ahora a por la siguiente!!!, ya tenemos hecho lo más jodido de la cresta!!!, pero todavía queda mucho!!!<br />
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Os vuelvo a enseñar el rapel de 40m, el que se suele hacer.<br />
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Y ésta es mi pequeña reseña que os he hecho, por si os sirve de algo!!!<br />
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Continuamos...<br />
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Curiosa figura, no!!! está muy reseñada en Internet, ja!!!<br />
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A Loren le hace gracia y me hace una foto!!!<br />
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Poco a poco vamos dejando atrás la anterior aguja y vemos por donde hemos estado rapelando, ¿jo es una pasada no??? pero ha sido una buena experiencia y hemos aprendido mucho!!!,..." recursos, recursos..."<br />
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Lo realizado ya...<br />
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Sale un precioso día, hace un día espléndido, idóneo para hacer crestas!!!, en esta cresta os encontrareis bastante cobertura y de varias compañías!!!<br />
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Una pequeña trepada..., algún que otro flanqueo...<br />
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...y salimos a la cresta. Una mirada atrás!!!<br />
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Ésa es la cima de la A. Franqueville 3.065m.<br />
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Cuarta cima del día!!!<br />
Paramos un poco a descansar, recogemos algo de material y nos quitamos los pies de gato. Hago una llamada a casa. La emoción del momento me hace estar orgulloso de lo que hemos conseguido, para mi es algo especial estar en este lugar, nunca lo habría imaginado y con mis propias manos lo he conseguido!!!<br />
Me noto algo cansado quizá por la tensión acumulada o por no dormir, veo el Aneto todavía muy lejos...<br />
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Ahora llega una parte muy bonita, llana y puntiaguda, con grandes bloques que hay que sortear por todo su filo, <u>son pasos muy atléticos y el tramo es largo</u>, lo decidimos hacer "a pelo", se hace bien pero tiene algunos destrepes algo delicados. Termina con un rapel de 20m que te deja en la Brecha superior de Losás.<br />
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Esa del fondo es la brecha.<br />
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Comenzamos a crestear, de lejos parece ancha pero luego cuando te metes ves que es muy entretenida por los grandes bloques que hay que sortear, se hace algo duro, es muy continua!!!<br />
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Éstos son los destrepes que os decía, aveces son simples losas pero otras veces son alguna que otra cortada!!!<br />
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Bonita la brecha de Tempestades!!!<br />
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Bonito y delicado destrepe, no admite errores!!!<br />
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Muchas veces te has de meter dentro de los bloques, otras veces los flanqueas y en muchas ocasiones has de ir por encima de ellos con gran equilibrio!!!
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Al fondo detrás nuestro, la A Franqueville!!!<br />
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Y todo lo realizado anteriormente!!!<br />
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Ya vemos muy cerca la brecha, pero no me encuentro bien..., se lo trasmito a Loren, no sé como explicároslo pero no lo veía claro, todavía nos quedaba mucho y me notaba algo cansado para continuar, no era físico sino creo que mental!!!, nunca me había ocurrido, algo me decía que no tenía que continuar, los nervios y la tensión acumulada me habían pasado factura, luego estaba el tema del bus, el último salía a las 18h, muy pronto!!!, era el momento de decidir continuar hasta el final o abandonar, es el último escape de la cresta.<br />
Le espliqué un poco a Loren lo que me pasaba y juntos decidimos que era mejor abandonar, todavía quedaba un largo tramo, no muy difícil pero delicado, con roca muy suelta,... eso no me tranquilizaba, sabía que no estaba al 100% mentalmente y me daba <u>miedo</u> continuar, creo que hubiera puesto en peligro a la cordada!!! Tomamos la decisión de abandonar, por mi parte creo que fue lo acertado. Llamé a casa, "abandonamos"; le dije a Pilar (mi novia), "llegaremos un poco antes de lo previsto, la Montaña me ha ganado esta batalla"...Sabía que era la mejor decisión, mi intuición no me suele fallar y decidí muy a mi pesar, que ésta vez debía de abandonar!!!, lo siento mucho por Loren, me hubiera gustado haber llegado con él al Aneto, entrar con él por la puerta grande..., pero sé que siempre habrá otra oportunidad, que la Montaña está ahí y se que volveré a esta cresta pronto, volveré a desafiarla y se que a la próxima, lo conseguiré.<br />
Creo que habiendo continuado y haciendo otra otra noche en altura lo hubiéramos conseguido, habríamos podido hacerlo, pero teniendo que bajar tan pronto para coger el bus, yo no lo veía claro!!!<br />
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Cresta recorrida!!!<br />
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Lo que nos quedaba...<br />
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Bueno al menos habíamos hecho lo más delicado de la cresta y estábamos muy contentos, lo habíamos hecho muy bien, habíamos disfrutado y el día era espléndido!!!<br />
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Se que pronto volveremos y la terminaremos o quizá la volveremos hacer desde el principio!!!<br />
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Brecha Sup. de Llosá, para bajar has de rapelar por el lado de coronas 20m.<br />
Bonito rapel!!!<br />
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Llego a bajo y me sigue Loren...<br />
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Valle de Llosás!!!<br />
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Cresta de Cregueña!!!<br />
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Collado de Coronas!!!<br />
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Brecha Superior de Llosás, es algo delicada, tierra y piedra suelta, comienzo a destrepar pero enseguida veo que no está bien, subo y decidimos rapelar, abandonamos una cordino y un mallón!!!<br />
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Brecha vista desde abajo!!!, cuidado con la caída de piedras!!!<br />
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Enfilamos el barranco hacia la tienda, vamos observando el tramo que nos faltaba y todo lo recorrido!!!, es muy bonito!!!, orgulloso de haber estado ahí arriba!!!<br />
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Duro barranco de Coronas como siempre!!!, llegamos al Ibón Sup.<br />
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Todo el tramo de cresta realizado!!!<br />
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Son las 13h, llegamos a la tienda, coincidimos con un grupo de montañeros de Monzón que venían del Aragüells, curiosa coincidencia!!!<br />
Acceso a la cresta desde el Ibón Inferior de Coronas, arriba el Collado Inf. de Llosás.<br />
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Y bueno amigos, ésto ha sido todo, prometo volver e intentarlo otra vez, siento no haberos podido enseñar cómo se entra en el Aneto por la puerta grande pero ésta vez no ha podido ser, lo dejaremos para otra ocasión!!!</div>
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Un saludo a todos y Feliz andada!!!</div>
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Nos vemos por el Monte!!!</div>
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Jesús Zuriguelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18312351342492885750noreply@blogger.com1